Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: glowplugs get on but a clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.
I was wrong. It never was the battery neg earth connection.
I swapped my glowplugs control and relay for a tested one so it is not the cause.
Ii looks more like it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).
I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays and replace the bugger one.
For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.
The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, checking and wiping the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.
The video below is (imho) the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.
I forgot that it's good practice to do as much diagnosing from the cabin.
I should have started there, with all doors shut.
I noticed that the driver's side indicator flashlight was flashing faster than the passenger's side.
The sound was similar to the one I heard from the relay.
I remember that touching the light bulb fitting once made something react when I was trying to figure out what was going wrong from the bonnet side.
So it clicked. I mean it clicked in my head.
and the friend who was my passenger at the time said it:
"you have a dead bulb".
I checked and he was correct.
It wasnt the earth, it wasn't the rain.
It was a defectuous old bulb that caused the circuit to disfunction.
It's replace with a new one now.
Let's see if anything else comes up!
(9639912580-G CARTIER) - Pricey when new but can be found second hand and tested
for a LDV Pilot van (DW8; it fits many other vehicle, check for yourself)
Once more it was the earth, the same battery earth that was causing the engine not to start.
I had readjusted it a few days before the engine went and it looked fine.
For this reason I looked at everything else, read all the manuals, cleaned all possible connections (even bought a replacement Preheat control unit), performed a parasitic draw test for all fuses and relays; checked all fuses and relays (post with video on checking relays here).
and in the end as I was doing the test, seeing that I had no draw and being clueless.
I thought I've been cleaning up everything electric around so let's just undo this battery negative earth connection, clean it and grease it up.
Next thing the van start (with a tongue in cheek look).
Made me feel like an idiot but as long as it started I'm happy and delighted I learned so much about my van's and 12V systems in general!
[EDIT:] It never was the battery neg earth connection. Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: Glowplug get on but clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.
I am 99.8% sure it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).
I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays as in the video above and replace the bugger one.
For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.
The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, cleaning the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.
Needless to say I bear a lot of guilt on the subject..
The video underneath from ElectronicNmore show us how to determine whether a spark plug is a working one or not.
Just about time!
Big thanks to you ElectronicNmore guys.
Yet another life-changing tip from Scotty Kilmer (his website) in one of his videos.
Personally I never had many good tools to work on mechanic "projects" and when I started to get a handful of decent ones I still couldn't get my head around this frustrating situation of a rounded nut or bolt, whether on bicycles, cars, vans or whatever that's held with nuts & bolts.
This is like an epiphany to me! That tool's inventor I want to hug!
Check out the video below to know the full story.
Thanks a bunch for that one Scotty Kilmer. Here is Scotty's video channel. Some people comment that they can't take the way he speaks. I only see a lot of life, positivity and no nonsense in his tone (which I like it if you asked me but you didn't) and it also comes from the video editing that is fast and furious. He also does Live talk as mechanic online.
As a film-making enthusiast I ought to ask him who is the videographer behind the youtube content and how they work together on the script!
Almighty ever energetic Scotty Kilmer gives out a great tip for LDV vans DIY owners in his video!
He uses heat from a torch!
Check it out!
Are you asking yourself why I am using so many of those these marks !!! at the end of my sentences!!!?
WELL THAT'S WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU WATCH A FEW VIDEOS OF Scotty Kilmer's videos!!!
Chirp! Chirp! Chirp!
My current unresolved problem probably caused by (me)splacement and probably misalignment too which happened I presume when I replaced the belt.
This video from the Dayco videos serie is helping me out.
So far, I took the belt out and re-placed it but to no avail. I noticed a wear on one side, edge of the multi grove belt (referred to as sidewall wear in the video). Some of the worn out rubber seems to have accumulated in and around the alternator too. I cleared it out.
I check manually that all pulleys, discs were sound and to the right tightness. It feels steady but probably needs better checking but no wobble.
I also noticed that on the tensioner roller I can see misalignment of the belt and can't do a thing about it.
My next step will be to take the belt of and listen and I will need to take the brake vacuum pump (shorter) belt to do that.
My guess is that my tensioner is worn someone. Let's see.
Review your belt and pulley basics with Eric the car guy's video and understand why, although it doesn't stop you from using your vehicle, it's not a good thing to use it with a noisy belt for too long as it directly can affect the timing of your engine resulting in more consequent and costly damages to essential parts of the engine like the camshaft itself.
and this is from Chris Fix which I will need in case my "diagnosis" (guess) is correct. That's another belt and tensioner replacement cost.
(Let me transcript this last video bit as it's too fast spoken for me to get it clear)
Diagnosing with water bottle spray
Run engine (keeps your fingers, limbs, hair, loose clothing away!)
Spray a little water on the inside rib of the belt (direct to pulley's groves)
If noise stops - the belt is still moving, the pulleys are still moving:
It is not the best tutorial (also because it's subtitled in french) but it gives you a good idea of the amount of work involved to change a head gasket on a DW8 peugeot engine.
I finally managed to get enough little coins to do an oil change to my dear LDV Pilot van.
And since I'm getting bigger oil leaks. One around the head gasket, two around the gearbox...
Here's a video from Eric the car guy that explains what's happened.
He speaks about the difference between liquid flow rate and viscosity; and about the mix of oil and combustion gases that wear the gaskets, rubber joints and metal parts. Those are the main culprits!
His very articulate way of sharing his knowledge and experience through talk and video works very well for me, it might as well for you.
Looks like there a gaskets replacement session ahead!
Recently I'm having an epiphany. I am starting to understand how engines works (it's about time).
That's thanks to a lot of hours reading, listening and watching as well as keeping my nails dirty.
It's not like I have a choice; I got two engines (diesel and petrol) and no money to pay for a mechanic and do my Qigong routine each morning to nurture my self-confidence and solution finding mindset as opposed to giving in to despair and disproportionate amount of colourful language.
This formula seems to work with lots of advice and guidance from anywhere I can get.
Now I am re-watching the video below from Eric the car guy (who's on that big online social network) and it's making sense (!). I can feel the shifts in my brains when I hear camshaft and timing belt. Enough about my godly revelation, here is the video:
(Thanks for all the work you put in doing these videos Eric.)
What is a manual transmission clutch and how does it work?
If you are like me you can drive for years and have a 'feel' or a basic understanding of that is a clutch
but you still don't understand what it really is on a vehicle and how it operates.
I'm done with daily use of things I don't understand so I looked on the net for readings and among others, I found this article and very straight to the point video from Howstuffwork.
It tells and shows the various parts flywheel, crankshaft, input shaft, pressure plate, clutch disc and explains how friction is used to connect elements and get power to your wheels for spinning.
So now you should know what is really happening when you hear a horrible grinding noise:
it's the sound of the friction between the flywheel and the clutch disc which is made of ceramic based materials in today's cars (asbestos in some older cars).
If you still don't get it, have a read of this article about transmission on Howstuffwork
and watch more videos.
If you prefer real images to animations, watch Ericthecarguy's very articulate take on the topic
"What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine?
Petrol engine:
In petrol engines fuel is mixed with air
then forced into the cylinders
where the fuel-air mix is compressed by the pistons
and ignited by spark plugs.
Diesel engine:
In a diesel engine the air is compressed before the fuel is added to it.
When air is compressed it heats up. This means that when the fuel is added to the compressed air it is very hot and the fuel-air mix ignites automatically. (So there are no spark plugs in a diesel engine as pressure is used to ignite the fuel-air mix.")
I found this very clear article which lists and explains what minimum basic maintenance should be done on a diesel engine,
read below or read the full article here on fourthgen.net.
"Changing the lubricating oil - This is usually necessary on a more frequent basis than gasoline engines - generally every 3000 miles
Changing the air filter - Since diesel engines experience high intake pressures, the air filtering system is important to not only filter media but also to cool the air.
Changing the oil filter - while a gasoline engine may give less mileage or performance with a dirty fuel filter, this can be more serious in the case of a diesel engine where dirty fuel can damage a diesel engine's fuel injection system. The filter should meet or exceed the standards suggested by manufacturer so that sulphur and carbon residue are removed. Synthetic oil is also recommended.
Early warning system - The early warning system that warns of engine overheating should be checked for functionality. A gasoline engine if overheated can be shut off, cooled down and restarted. However if a diesel engine gets overheated, it will be damaged.
Changing the fuel filter - It is important the change the fuel filter as recommended by the manufacturer in order to prevent condensation from building up and getting into the fuel injectors. The fuel tank should also be kept full to avoid moisture forming.
Gaskets should be checked and replaced on all critical areas especially in the combustion mounting areas and coolant hoses.
Bleeding the fuel system - While some diesel engines have self bleeding systems, others which do not, need to have the fuel system bled to get a steady air free flow of fuel. This becomes necessary after any of the following situations have occured. Running out of fuel.
2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.
3. Replacing fuel filter.
4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.
5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.
6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.
7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.
8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.
Draining the water separators - Since diesel fuel absorbs water more than gasoline, it can get contaminated very easily. Therefoer most diesel engine vehicles have a water separator that collects water from fuel. This water needs to be drained regularly from the separator using a drain valve called a petcock. Some water separators are self-draining.
Glow plugs - Glow plugs enable a diesel engine to get heated for combustion to take place. After prolonged use, these can wear out and may need to be replaced.
Installing an engine heating kit for diesel engines are especially useful in winter when diesel engines are hard to start. This saves fuel and prolongs the life of the diesel engine while cutting down on exhaust emissions. It also eliminates the need for idling which cause wear and tear on the internal parts of a diesel engine not to mention unnecessary fuel consumption."
I collected a few more links on the topic:
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/9-top-diesel-engine-maintenance-tips
http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/diesel_maintenance.html
http://answers.practicalaction.org/our-resources/item/diesel-engine-repair-maintenance
(This website looks amazing)
and finally if you are into boating, there is a course in Brighton:
http://www.lagoon.co.uk/shore-based-courses/course/diesel-engine-maintenance-course/135
I really enjoy learning and understanding how these old internal combustion engines work.
This video presents a Ford motor that has been opened up for people to see how it works.
Enjoy!
I am trying to stop assuming that I understand how things work so I do a bit of research on everything I admit I don't know or understand! Crazy endless quest I reckon.
A friend recently had to replace the starter battery on his narrow boat (Listel engine SR2 from the 70's). I found out that he needed a 90Ah/900v starter battery only (not leisure or both use) and which should be the same as his leisure battery, meaning they must both be either sealed or flooded (this will help recharging correctly and ensure a longer life for the batteries).
"when it comes to starter batteries it the cold cranking capacity that the factor here. A cranking motor can draw 300 amps or so when cranking and in winter a cold engine can take some turning. Cold cranking capacity is not the same as the ampare hour rating. However the so common 110 AH batteries will do it. Generally speaking Deep cycles don't work so well a cranking batteries when weather is cold but nothing else can be found these will do. Most battery suppliers with give both AH capacity and cold cranking capacity in amps marked CCA."
(for the boaters and vanners) "A lot of car batteries are now the sealed type , make sure you get the same as your leisures , either sealed or flooded .
Why would it matter if it was the same type as the domestic/leisure batteries?
answer: When charging from the alternator a sealed will take 14.4 , flooded 14.8 , the alternator will either stop charging at less than 14.4 so your leisures are not getting a full charge or you run the risk of overcharging the starter if it goes up to 14.8"
I found an interesting article entitle Car battery explained with a few explanatory inages such as these:
and tips like "Temperature
matters! Heat kills car batteries and cold reduces the available
capacity."
" Cranking power: As the temperature
drops, the cranking power required by the car increases. However, as more
cranking power is used, the amount of battery power available decreases.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is critical for good cranking ability. It refers
to the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds at 0°F
until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. For example, a 12
volt battery with 600 CCAs means the battery will provide 600 amps for
30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20 volts (three cells).
The higher the CCA, the more powerful the cranking ability. If you live in a cold
climate, you should consider the CCA rating when choosing a battery. If
you live in a very hot climate, you don't need as much CCA."
"An
Amp (or Ampere's) is the stand unit that current is measured at.
If there is a 1 volt drop across a 1 ohm resister, then 1 Amp is
drawn. This formula is know as 'Ohms Law'. However an Amp is a BIG
unit, for smaller electronic devices (i.e. computers) its usually
measured as milliamps (mA) which is 100 th of an Amp."
The FAQ at the bottom of the article sums it up well.
" What should I consider
when buying a battery? SIZE: What are the
dimensions of your original battery? Will it fit into my battery tray?
POWER: What are the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) required to power your vehicle?
WARRANTY: Automotive batteries are backed by a warranty package. Chose
what is right for your vehicle's needs. When I am replacing
my battery or cleaning the terminals, why is it important to remove the
ground wire first? Before you start,
always check the type of grounding system the vehicle has. If you remove
the positive connector first in a negative ground system, you risk the
chance of creating a spark. That could happen if the metal tool you're
using to remove the positive terminal connector comes in contact with
any piece of metal on the car. If you are working near the battery when
this occurs, it might create an ignition source that could cause the battery
to explode. It's extremely important to remove the ground source first. What does CCA mean? Cold Cranking Amps
is a rating used in battery industry to define a battery's ability to
start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps
a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Fahrenheit for 30 seconds,
while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery.
The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery. How do I safely
jump start my battery? There is a particular
sequence which should be followed. This reduces the risk of short circuiting
the battery and damaging your alternator etc. The sequence is as follows.
Switch off the
dead car and ensure all other electric devices (i.e. head unit) are
switched off. Position the dead car and the good car close to each other,
but NOT touching each other (could course a short circuit when jump
starting).
Connect one end
of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the dead battery.
Connect the other
end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the good battery.
Connect one end
of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal on the good battery.
Connect the other
end of the black jump lead to the chassis or large bolt/nut/bracket
on the engine. Anywhere away from the negative terminal of the dead
battery. Do NOT connect it to the negative terminal (-) of the dead
battery (explained why latter).
Ensure that none
of the jump leads will come in contact with any rotating or moving parts
in the engine bay. Switch on the good car and let it idle for a few
minutes. This will allow the two batteries voltages to 'settle' and
the alternator to do its job.
Start the dead
car, hopefully as the batteries are now connected in parallel, there
is twice the amount of current available to turn the engine over. Once
running disconnect the jump leads in the opposite order of connection.
Why can't the jump
lead be connected to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery? When
a battery is charging a chemical reaction is present. This produces a
waste product, which is flammable gas. When you connected the last jump
lead up to the dead car, there should be a spark (generated from the good
battery). You want this spark as far away as possible from the battery.
Otherwise there is a possibility that the gas will ignite and the battery
could burst! Which means your hands could be covered in sulphuric acid! See the news snippet on the left . Unfortunately any spark or naked flame can ignite the flammable
gas. Which in this persons case has now lead him to hospital with burns
to his face and hands.
What difference
is there between a petrol car battery and a diesel one? Not much, only the
storage capacity of diesel batteries are much bigger, hence they are physically
a bit larger. Plus they have a higher CCM so they seem to last longer." source: topbuzz.co.uk
Deep Cycle Batteries
The difference between deep cycle batteries and more traditional lead
acid car batteries is that deep cycle batteries use much thicker lead
and lead dioxide plates. This diminishes the surface area on which the
chemical reaction can occur. It gives the battery the ability to
discharge over and over, but diminishes its ability to produce a lot of
power over a short time.
Here are a few more links if you want to learn further. I usually need to read 10 times the same thing to get it in(!!)
