A procedure to help you fault find your gearbox & manual transmission problem(s)

Gearstick stiff? Gears Not engaging? Soft clutch pedal?

If your clutch pedal is down or soft it could be a lack of pressure in the hydraulic system (hydraulic system=fluid reservoir+slave cylinder+pipe+master cylinder ). 

But this would be guessing an guessing with mechanic repairs is waste of time, energy and money.

1/ check the clutch fluid level in the reservoir > If level is low there might be a leak

2/ check for leaks around all connections of the hydraulic system. Clean up everywhere and give it another chance to leak (time or a little ride?) so it becomes visible.

 If you find a leak there might be air in the system > This make the clutch hard to operate.

3/ Bleed the air from the system (it’s an easy task and this potential fault will be either fixed or ruled out).

For bleeding there are 2 ways : 

1/pumping the clutch pedal method

2/using a one-man-bleeding kit

(google these or I can send you links on how to do this)

If bleeding doesn’t sort the problem out, it can be due to either the slave cylinder (at gearbox bell housing level) or the master cylinder (fluid reservoir level) or both. Although these 2 are strong and don’t usual fail. Mechanics often replace both. (BUT for us LDVers it can prove difficult to find the right part - but not impossible). Check out http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk (they stock rover parts which is what we have on our pilots SD1rover gearbox LT77 or R380 - check the manuals on LDV files).

If you need replacing parts you will first need to identify your gearbox (a ref number is stamped on it and you can cross reference it with manuals)

This is the easiest bits to do. As in where you don’t need to take the gearbox down to replace parts inside (although this is not very hard to do but more work).

The next easy is to check and replace the selector shaft yoke (although this is hard to find new).

If the cylinders are ok, it can be the nylon bush in the selector shaft yoke (nylon wears off but you need replace the whole yoke as what Im holding on photo).

you might as well check the levels of AND replace the gearbox oil (with the correct one). I have a good link for a video on how to do this and which oil to use assuming your gearbox is a R380.

If none of these work out, It can also be  the clutch arm pivot, the fork, or even the clutch disc that need replacement.  All these are inside the gearbox.

That's a near enough diagram of your hydraulic system so you get an idea (I assume your Pilot is similar to mine from your photo).

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note: I try the best I can to follow professional experienced mechanic guidance and advices but I'm NOT a qualified mechanic, this is what I figure out as I work on my vehicle using all available help around me, real people, written manuals, online videos etc)

Dim-dip lamps

Looking into the electrics manual of the LDV pilot van I had to check out what "Dim-dip" meant... Wikipedia holds the answers... "Dim-dip lamps UK regulations briefly required vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1987 to be equipped with a dim-dip device[37] or special running lamps, except such vehicles as comply fully with UN Regulation 48 regarding installation of lighting equipment. A dim-dip device operates the low beam headlamps (called "dipped beam" in the UK) at between 10% and 20% of normal low-beam intensity. The running lamps permitted as an alternative to dim-dip were required to emit at least 200 candela straight ahead, and no more than 800 candela in any direction. In practice, most vehicles were equipped with the dim-dip option rather than the running lamps.[37] The dim-dip systems were not intended for daytime use as DRLs. Rather, they operated if the engine was running and the driver switched on the parking lamps (called "sidelights" in the UK). Dim-dip was intended to provide a nighttime "town beam" with intensity between that of the parking lamps commonly used at the time by British drivers in city traffic after dark, and dipped (low) beams; the former were considered insufficiently intense to provide improved conspicuity in conditions requiring it, while the latter were considered too glaring for safe use in built-up areas. The UK was the only country to require such dim-dip systems, though vehicles so equipped were sold in other Commonwealth countries with left-hand traffic.[38] In 1988, the European Commission successfully prosecuted the UK government in the European Court of Justice, arguing that the UK requirement for dim-dip was illegal under EC directives prohibiting member states from enacting vehicle lighting requirements not contained in pan-European EC directives. As a result, the UK requirement for dim-dip was quashed.[37] Nevertheless, dim-dip systems remain permitted, and while such systems are not presently as common as they once were, dim-dip functionality was fitted on many new cars well into the 1990s. The Jaguar XJS used this system, including the final Celebration models produced up until 1995" source: wikipedia article

Battery university

My van has a Blue Varta E11 74aH 680cca.

I just wanted to say it.

It has forced me to learn about electrics.
It's become a love/hate relationship.
I'm still the boss.
But... I had to shut up, be a good boy and learn so I don't become a 'part changer'.
Anyway these are two of the not so common bits I learned about car batteries.

12V batteries can have 'shorts' in themselves. Check out the video by mr-fix below.

"Check if your cars battery drain is caused by short circuit. Dirt, grease and moisture can create conductive layer that will slowly kill your cars battery, cause bad engine start or low voltage in the system.
Watch this tutorial and check your cars battery. It's quick and simple, you don't need to visit dealer or service. All you need for this test is a multimeter." written by mr-fix.

Full power accessories and short distance driving habits cause battery failures.
This article explains in detail what causes such battery failure that is not often talked of.
It is definitely a recommended reading to anyone who has been scratching their head for over 3 hours of poking around in the hope of reviving a no starter vehicle.

Battery University: "What causes car batteries to fail?"

Here is an excerpt:

"The battery remains a weak link and the breakdowns on 1.95 million vehicles six years or less are as follows:

• 52% battery
• 15% flat tire
• 8% engine
• 7% wheels
• 7% fuel injection
• 6% heating & cooling
• 6% fuel system

A breakdown due to the battery remains the number one cause.

* Source ADAC 2008 for the year 2007"

Another rainy day and a van not starting

It happened again.

Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: glowplugs get on but a clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.

I was wrong. It never was the battery neg earth connection.

I swapped my glowplugs control and relay for a tested one so it is not the cause.

Ii looks more like it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).

I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays and replace the bugger one.

For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.

The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, checking and wiping the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.

The video below is (imho) the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.

Thanks to Ratchets and wrenches.

[UPDATE]
It seems I have found the culprit.

I forgot that it's good practice to do as much diagnosing from the cabin.
I should have started there, with all doors shut.
I noticed that the driver's side indicator flashlight was flashing faster than the passenger's side.

The sound was similar to the one I heard from the relay.
I remember that touching the light bulb fitting once made something react when I was trying to figure out what was going wrong from the bonnet side.
So it clicked. I mean it clicked in my head.
and the friend who was my passenger at the time said it:
"you have a dead bulb".
I checked and he was correct.

It wasnt the earth, it wasn't the rain.
It was a defectuous old bulb that caused the circuit to disfunction.
It's replace with a new one now.
Let's see if anything else comes up!

A procedure to remove Burman 30-370 steering box on LDV Pilot 2003 (400 serie with DW8 peugeot engine)

Pilots' pilots.

Here is my two cents procedure and suggestions to remove your steering box on your own.

This is a long post so here is the start of it and I'll finalise it when I'll get more time.

Tools

• Jack
• 3 axle stands (one to support engine)
• copper hammer
• pitman arm puller
• ratchet
• 3/4W socket [drop arm]
• 22mm socket [tie rod end]
• lump hammer
• 13mm spanner/socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm spanner
• 10mm
• hex key [vaccum pump]
• oil cap and container
• tipex corrector
• manuals (available free on LDV files)

First and foremost, immobilise your vehicle properly and don't go under until it's firmly and steadily set up on axle stands on a flat surface because since you have a van there are people who need you and they won't like you anymore if you are as flat as a pancake because it dropped onto your face as you were working under it to repair it. Stay in shape, make it stable!

Lift up front of van high as to have enough room for arm movements.

Take off driver side wheel.

Take down tie rod end from drop arm

method used: Bang Bang (see pic) but on the right spot (see other pic)

other methods: fork etc will write up later

Take down drop arm

method used: Pitman arm puller (less than £10 online)

other methods: 

Heat drop arm around shaft (risk! Not so much as to melt seal inside).Hit both side of drop arm with similar lump hammers.

will write up later

Get caps and empty containers ready to stop and deal with oil spills.

Unscrew 2 pipes from box (from reservoir and from high pressure supply pipe), leave short pipe on as it’s connected to box only. Leave to empty itself.

In cabin, remove dashboard part under steering wheel (and around ignition barrel?).

In engine bay, put steering column to straight and mark placement of shaft with steering column coupling shaft to remember (I use tipex corrector) [check manual around this issue as I think it can be worked out in some other way when refitting but always good to make marks in case it helps] and remove completely pinch bolts from steering wheel shaft.

In cabin, support the steering column and remove the 2 nuts and plate that hold the column (note that here you might have to remove a plastic part that connects the shaft to the body where it goes through to the engine bay. I think I read it’s recommended to do this before removing the nuts and plate - it’s broken and missing on mine so I didn’t have to). No need to disconnect any but watch out for cables and not to reap any off.

plate/bracket supporting column above

 

broken bit on mine

steering column coupling shaft out from steering box upper shaft (above)

Pull shaft up until about 3/4 inches are left on engine bay side (or whatever is enough to get steering column coupling shaft out).

Disconnect the high pressure supply pipe from the engine crossmember (clips)

SUPPORT THE ENGINE PROPERLY (see manual and pancake story at beginning of this post)

and undo the 2 bolts and  the plate at bottom of steering box.

Remove 3 bolts holding steering box.

Remove the vacuum pump (very easy 1 bolt, 1 hex bolt)

Getting the box out.

Method I used:

Get a copper hammer (thanks Tony Norbury for this and many more tips) and hit at the bottom of box on the side facing the back of the van.

That should rotate the bottom of the box upward toward the front of the van

so you can access the 2 bolts of the box lower mounting fixing where the crossmember was connected.

At the start I did hammer the box down from the top, hitting on the place where the hole for the right hand top bolt was (when still in place) This made it rotate a bit more but not that much and it was noisy, exhausting and not so efficient so I came up with the following solution.

This is what I called the Gap of Hope. The rotation started showing some progress. and my biceps to cry.
Also the lower little white arrow show where I was hitting to rotate the box in the opposite direction.

Get a L-shaped bracket (thick metal) with a hole of similar size to bolt. The shortest the short side of the L shape is the better I reckon, and the longest the long side is best too but not crucial as it can be extended.

You should also find a short bit of metal with similar thickness to even up pressure from the side of the other bolt - so as not to bend the original plate.

Bolt this bracket and the short bit under the plate where the crossmember was.

You have made yourself a lever and you can now rotate the box indefinitely until it comes out.

Lubricant where/when possible helps. There was quite some rust around mine.

You can remove the box one out from under through where the vacuum pump was.

Think the box outside.

Done.

Amazing power of the mind.

Many thanks to all from Club LDV who have helped with ideas and suggestions all throughout.

Now for the refit...

Toolbox of Land Rover videos for LDV vans owners

I have found this youtube channel (below) very useful and informative:
Land Rover Toolbox Videos
The videos are professionally made, clear and to the point and have lots of tips.
It has  helped me find out about my gearbox and steering so far.

Here is a video that show how to refill your R380 gearbox oil:

and one about steering check basics:

Check it out!

As Darren from Club LDV often reminds us (!!!), LDVs has lots in common with the Rover SD1
(they share British Leyland group heritage) - Rover SD1 infos and more infos

Although they know little about LDVs they do have corresponding parts (at cheaper cost) so you might want to take a look at the Rimmer bros online shop that sells SD1 parts.
(Note: This is NOT advertising, just sharing knowledge).

Assume nothing but TEST everything! Parasitic draw test, relays, glow plugs, earth connections, etc

Check your earth connections first!

and assume nothing but test everything!

Preheating - glow plugs control unit and relay

(9639912580-G CARTIER) - Pricey when new but can be found second hand and tested

for a LDV Pilot van (DW8; it fits many other vehicle, check for yourself)

Once more it was the earth, the same battery earth that was causing the engine not to start.
I had readjusted it a few days before the engine went and it looked fine.
For this reason I looked at everything else, read all the manuals, cleaned all possible connections (even bought a replacement Preheat control unit), performed a parasitic draw test for all fuses and relays; checked all fuses and relays (post with video on checking relays here).

Eric the car guy explains how to perform

a parasitic draw test

in the above video.

This is what you need to do if your brand new battery keeps going flat overnight.

If need be one has to check the various relays of the vehicle.

This video is probably the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.

Thanks to Ratchets and wrenches.

and in the end as I was doing the test, seeing that I had no draw and being clueless.

I thought I've been cleaning up everything electric around so let's just undo this battery negative earth connection, clean it and grease it up.

Next thing the van start (with a tongue in cheek look).

Made me feel like an idiot but as long as it started I'm happy and delighted I learned so much about my van's and 12V systems in general!

[EDIT:] It never was the battery neg earth connection. Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: Glowplug get on but clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.

I am 99.8% sure it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).

I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays as in the video above and replace the bugger one.

For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.

The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, cleaning the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.

How many perfectly working spark plugs have we discarded?

Needless to say I bear a lot of guilt on the subject..
The video underneath from ElectronicNmore  show us how to determine whether a spark plug is a working one or not.
Just about time!
Big thanks to you ElectronicNmore guys.

Cure to the frustration of rounded bolts and nuts!

Yet another life-changing tip from Scotty Kilmer (his website) in one of his videos.
Personally I never had many good tools to work on mechanic "projects" and when I started to get a handful of decent ones I still couldn't get my head around this frustrating situation of a rounded nut or bolt, whether on bicycles, cars, vans or whatever that's held with nuts & bolts.
This is like an epiphany to me! That tool's inventor I want to hug!
Check out the video below to know the full story.

Thanks a bunch for that one Scotty Kilmer. Here is Scotty's video channel. Some people comment that they can't take the way he speaks. I only see a lot of life, positivity and no nonsense in his tone (which I like it if you asked me but you didn't) and it also comes from the video editing that is fast and furious. He also does Live talk as mechanic online.
As a film-making enthusiast I ought to ask him who is the videographer behind the youtube content and how they work together on the script!

How to deal with rusty stuck bolts - Tips from a mechanic

Almighty ever energetic Scotty Kilmer gives out a great tip for LDV vans DIY owners in his video!
He uses heat from a torch!
Check it out!
Are you asking yourself why I am using so many of those these marks !!! at the end of my sentences!!!?
WELL THAT'S WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU WATCH A FEW VIDEOS OF Scotty Kilmer's videos!!!

I am a fan!!!

(I couldn't resist drawing that one for my cartoon and caricature blog.)

LDV Pilot and Convoy vans - Basic advice on replacing the kin pins

How and what tools do you need to replace the king pins on a Pilot or a Convoy LDV van?
In 2 posts, quoting from auto banter:

Paul[_5_] external usenet poster Posts: 70

LDV pilot - convoy Whats the going rate for a king pin change - mine needs doing and I swore blind never to do another myself ;-) Also, is front axle same off convoy, can get a complete one with new pins for £100.. seems like a much nicer option!

#4 (permalink)    October 12th 09, 10:32 PM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance

Paul[_4_] external usenet poster Posts: 41

LDV pilot - convoy Pins are only £29.. which makes up for the fact you either take the axle off and take it somewhere with a press, or spend three days with a sledge hammer beating the fcuk out of it...

(3 days? Some say a week)

#5 (permalink)    October 14th 09, 11:53 AM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance

Mrcheerful external usenet poster Posts: 1,691

LDV pilot - convoy a big air hammer takes them out in seconds.

(Don't forget to grease them well)

Diagnosing head gasket symptoms - Head gasket failure types

Someone I know was worried the head gasket in their car had blown.
That's usually a right reason to worry as this gasket plays a major role in the running of the engine and usually entails costly repairs.
I look for some informations as to how to understand why it happens and how it happens.
This link explains the various head gasket failure types and this one gives infos about blown head gasket symptoms.

Hope that helps!

A guide to changing your diesel vehicle's engine oil

This very well illustrated article will show you how to replace the oil in your diesel engine.
Read it on the brilliant enginebasics.com website
along with this article explaining the importance of clean oil in your engine.

Replacing the accelerator cable tutorial

The mystery of the slowest van is finally solved.

The cable of my LDV Pilot van snapped off the other night while I was driving.

I rang Channels Commercials but they didn't have it in stock and offered to order it for early next week.

I needed the van operational for Saturday morning so it wasn't good enough. I rang KSL garage services who didn't have it either but directed to LDV Parts. They had it and could deliver on friday morning.

When I bought the van 2 years ago I was told its only downside was that it had been fitted with a speed-limiter and sometimes would run slow. It didn't do it when I test drove it.

Then it was getting slower and slower. Driving was harder and harder too as I had to press the gas pedal hard t get the van to pull its own weight only. I tried changing the oil filter but nothing much happened. It was getting slower. I heard about some of these vans had been fited with long rear axles to protect the gearbox (exRM van) which requires double work from the engine.

When I changed the cable today I tried it out and to my surprise the van is very responsive and fast... as should be I guess... It's like having a new van! No more gym work for my right leg.

Here is a tutorial on how to replace the accelerator cable. It's an easy enough task.
First I unscrewed this part to let the cable loose with spanner 9 or 10 (metric system. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.)

It's a bit tricky to take off and fit back the cable end from the (beige) plastic part

(which is not supplied with the new cable = breaking it is not an option).

What worked for me is to hold back the spring and push down the end. This released the cable.  

I removed the accordeon pipe (2 philips head screws)

to access the nuts seen on the next blurry pics.

It also has a rubber ring (LDV S&M).

Inside the cabin,

I unmounted the nuts holding the gas pedal to release the cable from it.

Never mind the spring. Just replace it as is when mounting back.

Have a good look at how the cable end fits in the slots on top of the head of the pedal.

The cable end looks like a bicycle one.

Can't recall the nuts size but i reckon was between12 and 15.

I used these (cheapest I could get) tools but it'd be better to use shorter deep sockets.

This is the old cable's rubber housing. It was well bent and snapped.

Let's admire both beautiful ends of the rubber housing.

Here is where the cable clips in and goes from boot to cabin.

I filed the hole in the body to make it go through the body.

Perhaps a better idea is to slighlty file the cable end as it seems it had been done on the old cable

but I chose no to take the risk to overdo it and to not be able to fit it correclty afterward.

Hope that helps.

If you have any question please post it in the comment.

I can't always reply as I'm a busy bee but take a look at this page for suggestions to get support from the international online LDV community.

Enjoy your LDV Pilot van ride!

How engines work - videos and read

I am really trying to understand how eninges work as much as I can. And keep it in my head!
So here are more links about the topic:

videos

Article about internal combustion engines.

A bit further with "understanding camshafts"

and with "Dummys Guide to Understanding Your Car Engine" we get the list of the car engine components along with images.

Brake vacuum pump replacement...

Yesterday the belt on the brake vacuum pump of the Pilot had its last spin ion a white smoke and the brakes went off on me.
Lucky I wasn't going fast and I wasn't far from a place to stop safely.
I was sold an approximately similar belt (according to seller) but it was a lot too short and I tried in good faith to fit it on but it only lead me to crack the pump's bracket. Don't replace thing in a hurry early in the morning if you can cause your brain might not be yet fully switched on. Mine wasn't.

It's an easy job with the right belt. I did it before.

Now I am after that part as I must go back to MOT second round very soon to show my brand new front shocks...

This is what it looks like on the DW8 diesel non turbo non a/c 2003.
The belt spec are Dayco 10A0675C.
(Thanks to Steve and Joshua from the LDV fb group!) 

How to Make Battery Cables the Right Way and the Easy Way

That can be handy...

How to repair a puncture in a tyre with a repair plug/string

If you go to an independent tyre fitter, it should cost about a fiver.

If you do it yourself read this first -  and this to be in accordance with british standards.

Watch the video tutorial.

How to Change coolant on a 306 DW8 Engine

peugeotforums.com

A good tuto here with photos and indications.

And a good video by Chris Fix on the topic which I think is suitable for the LDV Pilot (need to empty through the hose as there's no flush screw!) but many other engines too.

Replacing the glow plugs on DW8 diesel engine

 I need to replace the heat plugs of the DW8 since my van only start with a cold start spray shot if the temperature goes down or if the dampness is too much.
I had a look today but couldn't figure out how to take the air intake manifold out which is needed cause it blocks access to the plugs.
And lucky me found this from Liamautomechanic!
Thanks Liam!

replacing the glow plugs removing the inlet manifold citeron peugeot video


 If i get it correctly we have to take off and disconnect:

• 4 bolts (HEX wrench/ alen key 5) [b]>[/b]metal pipe from exhaust (screwdriver) 
• flexi pipe 
• electric plug at bottom
• water bottle to be moved out of the way

next step is to remove the nut on top of the heater plug.
He uses a 10 socket and a small ratchet to unscrew the plugs.

hopefully i dont need that:
+++ Day 2: All went well. It took me 2 or 3 hours not counting in the time it took to find the tools (I havent got that many and they re all scattered + when I went to buy the extension for the ratchet the shop employee got the key stuck in the display's lock...). What I needed was slightly different than on the above video which is normal since my engine is on a LDV Pilot 2003 DW8 diesel non turbo. Tools used:

• DW40 lubricant
• short arm HEX wrench/Allen key 5 (not sure of the size though) 
• medium or long arm HEX wrench/Allen key (bigger size but again I don't know exactly 
• flat screwdriver pair of pliers 
• socket 7mm
• deep socket 10mm (for plugs) 
• ratchet 
• ring offset spanner (or deep socket wrench) 8mm light 
• set of new plugs... 

Before anything give the plugs a good DW40 bath...
First unscrew the Allen head bolts.  These with long arm Allen wrench:

 These with the short arm smaller hex wrench

Next unscrew the air intake pipe collar with the flat screw driver.

snap open the clip-on collar of the metal pipe from the exhaust using the screwdriver too.

If you disconnect these two you can already pull out the air intake manifold that covers the engine head and prevents access to the glow plugs.
Then you can start unpluging the flexi pipes (there are 2 of them) and the electric plug. They are located close-by the air intake connection.
You can see the plug here and the red labelled flexi pipe - connected beside each other. Right behind is the third flexi pipe which connects underneath.

The third flexi pipe.

Disconnect that bigger rubber pipe at the very back of the manifold (below the electrical ringed plastic pipes on the image) using the flat screwdriver. Pop it out like the pipe from the exhaust. Same clip-on collar type.

 

Lastly unscrew the bolt that hold these 2 electric wires right under that rubber pipe you just took off. Use the ring spanner or deep socket one 8mm for that job.
They are disconnected on the image.

 
 Pull out the manifold and you can now access the plugs.
Get your 7mm socket and your ratchet + extension to undo the bolts that hold the wire (sometimes a metal plate) between the plugs.

Once undone pull out the wire and change the socket to the deep 10mm one so you can get cracking on the plugs. Go carefully cause it seems they can break easily. I had no probs at all but maybe it was due to the DW40 bath?
It's appropriate to clean around the plugs before you take them out or else just make sure nothing gets in their hole when taken out and when placing in the new ones. A reasonable amount of grease on the thread of the new ones is probably a good idea too.

The old ones on mine looked like that:

No wonder why the engine wouldn't start as soon as the temperature would go down...

Once you re done with the new ones, go all the way backwards:

1. electric cables at the back
2. rubber pipe at the back (bit of a pain to close the collar back - I used a pair of pliers)
3. flexi pipes x 2 by the air intake connection
4. electric plug by the air intake connection
5. Main air intake pipe to the manifold - tight up the collar back
6. Place the manifold where it should be
7. Metal pipe from the exhaust (pain as well -I used a pair of pliers which crunched flesh off my fingers)
8.  Screw back the Allen bolts

 that should tighten up everything.

If you did it correctly and hopefully this was just maintenance, the engine will start up right away as mine did.