Conversion tool for your mileage and more motoring conversions UK, US

Look no further and try this converter site. It works well for me (found one eventually).
Plain and simple mpgtokpl.com.
Handy to figure out your fuel consumption if you are going on a journey.

Eberspacher to heat your van

Eberspacher - AIRTRONIC air heaters and HYDRONIC water heaters instead of the wood burner?

How car electricals work?

In my learning serie of posts,
here is an article about how car electricals work.
Something I am yet not familiar with but will greatly benefit from learning about concerning the van for repairs and when I will attempt conversion.
It's a great guide to uinderstand how electricity works in general as well.

LDV Pilot campers - project and how to build on a modest budget

Check out this LDV camper website
A useful article to start with me:
"

BASE VEHICLES

When choosing a base vehicle, many factors have to be considered, how do you want your camper to look, to function, costs and your own handiness with tools and materials.
Seeing as this site is about LDV'S, i should list the variants most often used;
Leyland Daf sherpa / 200, these were updated versions of the Morris j4 and retained most of the body pressings,the widened version was called the 400.these were later given a facelift and became the pilot and convoy.
While these are not the most comfortable or best equiped vans on the road, they are robust,long lived and reliable and many are still seen on the roads today. The pilot was voted "best commercial van of the year" a year after production ended.

• The Pilot has one length and height ; L 4.75m..H 2.07. W 1.72m
• (internally, L 2.59. H 1.43. W 1.42 .approx load space)
• The Convoy has three lengths and 3 heights;
• The swb is 5.05m in length ( 2.79m internal from back of front seats)
• The lwb is 5.55m in length (3.28m internal)
• The xlwb is (no information available at this time)
• Heights are; 2.19m for the low roof (1.46m internal)
•                     2.59m for the high roof (1.85m internal)
•                      2.77m for the extra high roof (2.03m internal)

Both the Pilot and the Convoy come in; Minibus with windows along the full length,
Crewbus with windows in the front half and vans with windows only in the front doors.
some converters choose the ambulance version of the convoy with the 3.5ltr Rover V8, fuel costs might be prohibitive unless you convert to lpg.
there are also luton vans and pickups, but these do not lend themselves to conversion.
ENGINES; the Pilot has only the peugeot scourced 1.9 diesel with 72hp.
The convoy comes with;

• 2.5 diesel from peugeot in either turbo or normally aspirated developing 70hp and 55hp respectivly
• 2.5 diesel with Banana intakes from ford in either turbo or normally aspirated developing 100hp and 76hp respectivly
• 2.5 diesel with normal intakes in either turbo or normally aspiratd developing 85hp and 70hp respectivly
• and the 2.4 diesel from ford, turbo only but in 3 outputs,75hp,90hp and 110hp.

• there is also a 2ltr petrol/petrol,lpg engine or the powerfull 3.5ltr V8."

Photos on the website

Protection

This company offers protection for LDVs (not for the Pilot but Convoy's services will probably fit) and ply lining.
Never seen that type of (specialised) trade before here, that's why I'm posting it.

Conversion and off-grid life

Article about Mike Hudson's van life
and his vandogtraveller website.

Loving the conversion work.

LDV files

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ldvfiles/files/

from LDV files on fb

Thanks Michael!!

Registering your DIY campervan when completed (link)

http://www.caravanwise.co.uk/motor/diycamper.html

Registering your DIY campervan when completed

There is a legal requirement that a UK registered vehicle is in the correct classification on the V5C log book. If you have converted a van into a motor caravan then you must return the V5C for amendment once the conversion is complete.

All campervans, motor caravans and motorhomes fall into the DVLA category of "Motor Caravan" but in order to qualify as a "Motor Caravan" it must have certain minimum features and it must have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Minimum Features

See the bottom of this page for the Department for Transport definition of "Motor Caravan" which is used for imports.

1. There must be a door that provides access to the living accommodation.
2. A bed, which is an integral part of the living quarters which has a minimum length of 1800mm or 6 feet. This can be converted at night from seats used for other purposes during the day but must be permanently fixed within the body of the vehicle.
3. There must be a water storage tank or container on or in the vehicle.
4. A seating and dining area, permanently attached to the vehicle. The table may be detachable but must have some permanent means of attachment to the vehicle. It's not good enough to have a loose table.
5. There must be a permanently fixed means of storage, a cupboard, locker or wardrobe.
6. There must be a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle powered by gas or electricity.
7. There must be at least one window on the side of the accommodation.

If the vehicle has all of these minimum features present and permanently fixed and installed properly then you should be able to have it reclassified as a "Motor Caravan". Not only is it a legal requirement for your campervan to be in the correct classification once it is on the V5C as a "Motor Caravan" it may also (dependant on its unladen weight) benefit from higher speed limits than a van, lower MOT costs, lower road tax and cheaper insurance (in most cases) than a van.
We are frequently asked exactly what the process is for changing the classification on the V5C and since the Direct Gov web page on the subject isn't specific enough we wrote to the DVLA and asked them. Here is there reply.
"If a vehicle has been modified from its original specification it is a legal requirement that the vehicle keeper is required to return the registration certificate, V5C for amendment, no fee is required.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.

The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."
In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.
The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."
In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.

1. Make sure that your vehicle is completely finished and that all of the required features detailed above are in place and visible. Make sure it is clean and tidy.
2. Take a photograph from the front and rear with the registration plates clearly visible and if you have a rear opening door open it and show some of the interior.
3. Take a photograph of each of the required features in situ (and in the usable position in the case of the bed and table).
4. Print the photographs or have prints made and write on the back your registration number a description of what the photograph shows and the date.

What you are trying to do is to provide clear evidence that what you have made is permanently a "Motor Caravan" and that the furniture and fixings have been fitted to a satisfactory standard. You need to provide the DVLA with sufficient clear evidence in order for them to simply change the V5C and send it back to you. If you don't provide sufficient clear evidence then they will want to inspect your van before approving it for a change in classification. Remember the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".
It will do no harm to send them the completed engineers report that out insurers require with your photographs and V5C. Your covering letter should explain that you have completed the conversion of a van into a "Motor Caravan" and that you are now seeking to have your V5C amended. Make it clear in this letter that you understand the requirements and list what your vehicle has ie permanently and securely fixed:

• seats and table
• sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
• cooking facilities
• water storage
• storage facilities

State the date that your conversion was completed, ideally this should be the date that is shown on the back of the photographs.
We have provided an example letter in rtf format here. You can use this as the basis of your own letter. Make sure that you change all of the parts between square brackets and add anything else that you think may be pertinent.
Submit this and all being well your V5C will just arrive back amended. Currently there is no charge for this amendment.

DFT Definition of Motor Caravan

The following is taken from the DFT website now in the National Archives.
"Motor caravan" means a special purposes passenger car constructed to include living accommodation which contains at least the following equipment:

• seats and table
• sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
• cooking facilities
• storage facilities

This equipment shall be rigidly fixed to the living compartment; however, the table may be designed to be easily removable.
The interpretation applied to this definition is as follows and the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Seats and a Table

• Are required to be an integral part of the living accommodation area, and mounted independently of other items
• The table must be capable of being mounted directly to the vehicle floor and /or side wall.
• The table mounting arrangement must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded), although the table may be detachable
• Permanently secured seating must be available for use at the table
• The seats must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and/or side wall
• The seats must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted riveted, screwed or welded)

Sleeping Accommodation

• Must be an integral part of the living accommodation area
• Either beds or a bed converted from seats (to form a mattress base)
• Secured as a permanent feature, with base structures bolted, riveted, screwed or welded to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, (unless the sleeping accommodation is provided as a provision over the driver's cab compartment

Cooking Facilities

• That are an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation and is mounted independently of other items
• That are secured to the vehicle floor and / or side wall
• Secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed, or welded
• The cooking facility must consist of a minimum of a two ring cooking facility or a microwave in either case having a fuel/power source
• If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel supply pipe must be permanently secured to the vehicle structure
• If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel reservoir must be secured in a storage cupboard or the reservoir secured to the vehicle structure

Storage Facilities

• Storage facilities must be provided by a cupboard or locker
• The facility must be an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation, ie mounted independently of other items, unless incorporated below seat/sleeping accommodation or the cooking facility
• The storage facility must be a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded)
• The storage facility must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, unless a storage provision is provided over the driver's cab compartment

What's in your log book?

It is a legal requirement that your vehicle is correctly classified in your log book. Once you have completed a DIY campervan conversion you must immediately have the V5C log book amended.

Camper van conversion tips

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/insulate-my-van

http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/

insulate my van

• 21 posts & 13 voices | Started 4 years ago by mikewsmith | Latest reply from mikewsmith

Tags:
No tags yet.

1. mikewsmith - Member 

   Whats best, cheap and effective?
   Was thinking of laminate floor insulation for the floor and something sealed for the walls.
   Got about 50-70mm in the wall space before I replace the ply.
   Cheers

   Posted 4 years ago #
2. gusamc - Member 

   seen old carpet/underlay used
   also seen bubble wrap used but it did,'t last

   Posted 4 years ago #
3. Suggsey - Member 

   If you are doing it for warmth dont forget some under the floor- i know from experience tht this reduces the temperature in the back the most!

   Posted 4 years ago #
4. ton - Member 

   that yellow foam stuff with silver foil backing.
   or wood with straw for insulation

   Posted 4 years ago #
5. mikewsmith - Member 

   thats what the laminate floor stuff was for, will have a look in b&q i think

   Posted 4 years ago #
6. ton - Member 

   did a works van in it.
   stuck it on with mastic.

   Posted 4 years ago #
7. spooky_b329 - Member 

   Depends what you consider cheap.
   Even a cheapish method of foil backed bubble wrap will start adding up when you price in the high temp glue required. Personally I don't this is very effective as its designed to have a void on both sides. People also use camping mat glued to the panels.
   Best avoid fibreglass or rockwool as it soaks up moisture, can drop to the bottom of each panel and then feed the rust bugs.
   If you can budget £420, spray insulation is the dogs danglies. Its what they spray inside shipping containers and warehouse roofs with. Mask off all metalwork and ribs you want to keep clean, sheet over the cab opening and floor, and thats the hardest bit over with. You need to be careful to keep away from lock mechanisms (bit of fibreglass round them to stop any cold spots) and keep checking that the mix stays correct otherwise the foam won't set, or won't expand. I used it on my van, the £420 kit did the walls and ceiling of a mwb hi-top Iveco, same as a LWB Transit. http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/
   P.S. Don't even think about cans of squirty foam - it'll cost a fortune, its highly flammable, (unless you get the fire rated stuff) is open cell so absorbs moisture, and is impossibly messy to try and cover a flat surface.
   I used the Kingspan/Celotex insulation board that Ton speaks of for the floor, downside is you need to batten out the floor at 600mm centres, and will need 12mm ply minimum to go back over the top.
   Finally, I know some of the camper van converters just line the back of the ply with some sort of blanket insulation, then screw it back onto the van. Cheap and quick, avoids the problem of damp insulation sitting against the metal panels, but probably not as effective.
   
   

   Posted 4 years ago # 1
8. damion - Member 

   I posted this on the T4 forum, but you need to subscribe to view it there so here it is for all to see. Much warmer after, but still wish I'd put more under the floor:
   After much reading, pondering and confusion I finally settled on a plan of attack and this is what happened.....
   The plan was to accept the fact that condensation was going to happen regardless and chose materials that would not absorb it. OK, so I may end up with puddles in places, but I'd rather that than fret about how much had been absorbed by what where. I drive around with the windows open pretty much all year round as it is. I read various threads on talk audio about soundproofing and worried about the weight of the flashing tape (shouldn't have) and had intended to get some acoustic felt for the floor but that never materialised. I'm still dead chuffed with the results though.
   Flashing tape two layers thick on the wheel arches, and the rest of the roll spread around:
   
   3mm acoustic foam underlay on top of that:
   
   
   Followed by Celotex (25mm on the top, 50mm on the bottom):
   
   
   Then the tin foil bubble wrap:
   
   
   Two layers of acoustic foam went on the floor:
   
   Followed by more bubble wrap:
   
   I also put two layers of the acoustic foam topped by a layer of the bubble wrap in the roof. I had planned to use the celotex but the 25mm stuff has just a tad too thick so I couldn't get the panels in neatly.
   Then, seeing as I blew the money I had to ply the inside on a new stereo (well I ask you, what is more important?) the old AA panels had to go back in:
   
   I can't believe how much difference it has made to the level of noise in the cab. We can now have a chat at 70mph at normal levels, and that's saying something for me as I suffer from tinitus and struggle isolating sounds as it is! Is it warmer? I don't know I've still got to order the bed.
   Quantities used:
   1 sheet 50mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
   1 sheet 25mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
   2 rolls (60mm x 8m) Tin foil bubble wrap (Wickes)
   2 packs (10m2) Acoustic Underlay, poo loads left (Screwfix)
   1 Roll Silver Duck Tape (Screwfix)
   1 Roll Double sided carpet tape (Screwfix)
   1 Roll (225x10m) Flashing tape (Screwfix)
   As you can see I've not done the barn doors (or the SLD) yet, I've still got parts of the AA chevrons to remove, so need to pop the door handles off. I'll probably get another roll of flashing tape for these. If I'd have known how easily it went on, and the fact its nowhere near as heavy as I though it was going to be I'd have used more in the first place.
   As soon as I get the wheels back from the powdercoater I'll post some pics of the outside.

   Posted 4 years ago # 1
9. spooky_b329 - Member 

   Damion, don't think you'll get any condensation problems in there, the foil bubblewrap is taped all round so will act as a vapour barrier, and the fact you taped the walls before adding the insulation board will help as well

   Posted 4 years ago #
10. damion - Member 

    Thanks spooky, yeah, its been in nearly a year now and not had any problems with with condensation dripping on my head like in the old van.

    Posted 4 years ago #
11. jeff - Member 

    Damion, I've done the same with my ex-AA T4, but I've also carpet lined the inside, and covered the existing floor in hard wearing amdro flooring.
    Much warmer/quieter, but I think I need to put flashing tape round the front wheel arches.
    PSA - Wickes online is cheapest by a long way for silver bubble wrap.

    Posted 4 years ago #
12. Tiger6791 - Member 

    I've stuck camping mats in my Landy, they we're £2 each from local 'everything cheap shop' they have a silver foil on one side. Stuck 'em on with Carpet tape, whole 110 Landy insulated for less than £20

    Posted 4 years ago #
13. alexonabike - Member 

    Thermafleece and hemp matting.

    Posted 4 years ago #
14. mikewsmith - Member 

    looks good Damion I think you have a clear winner and a reminder to take pics as I go!! Will post some results

    Posted 4 years ago #
15. mikewsmith - Member 

    just found the spray foam site not sure if I'm quite up for the gimp suit
    

    Posted 4 years ago #
16. peteimpreza - Member 

    damion how much weight did that add?

    Posted 4 years ago #
17. Curly68 - Member 

    That looks really good Damion. And the step by step pics are a good way of showing what you have done.
    I have used the rockwool method and having been in the back of my van recently, there was ice droplets on my roof so I don't know how much moisture has crept into the insulation!

    Posted 4 years ago #
18. alexonabike - Member 

    IMO If you plan on sleeping in your van, don't use foam. As it cures (over a long time) its gives off VOC's that can make you feel like crap in the am. Just my experience. You may be able to get stuff that is not solvent based so have a good hunt around first.

    Posted 4 years ago #
19. caterhamnut - Member 

    Excellent thread and pics guys. Going to do the same to my VW.
    Homebase doing the thermawrap foil bubblewrap stuff 2 for 1 at the moment, B&W were recently aswell.
    Is there an easy to find place to get that celotez stuff from - screwfix?

    Posted 4 years ago #
20. grantway - Member 

    What about installing a Leisure battery and some
    electrical sockets for those remote places.
    Anyone have advice on this too
    Can you stop condensation?
    Great thread

    Posted 4 years ago #
21. mikewsmith - Member 

    its gives off VOC's
    

    
    thats half the fun!! A quick google will give answers on batteries, Found a couple of good transit ones, kit is available from any online Caravan shop (might have to engage stealth browsing for that)

Anderson plugs

http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?568-DIY-Guide-to-Anderson-Plugs

LDV van camper conversion

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=502 http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/en-gb/insulation-news-archive/motorhome-insulation-shows-demand-for-efficiency.aspx#axzz2j3N7OjvE

LDV van camper conversion - Generator inverters

Just examples of products I found (I don't specially recommend them):

Clarke 720W Petrol Generator - G720

Clarke IG1000 1kW Inverter Generator

Other blogs on LDV Pilot vans and more

http://www.campervanlife.com/building/choosing-a-base-vehicle

Wiki history of LDV group

Internet movie cars database

http://mycamperplan.wordpress.com/

http://www.pimpmysherpa.co.uk/

Loads of pic on this flikr group

Teapotcircus Flikr group

http://sundownpilot.blogspot.co.uk/

http://www.campervanproject.co.uk/ldv-pilot-campervan-project-1-stage-1/

Legal Information, Requirements and Rules for Camper Vans DVLA

Read here

Running on veg oil

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=564408&page=1

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/green-motoring/2746598/Whats-in-your-tank.html

voltage regulator and usb gadget charger circuit

Welding metal

Slightly off topic although a good skill to have when you own a van or any vehicle. Even a bike. And you are good enough with your hands.

Good FORUM:  http://weldingweb.com

wiki How-to > helpful read to chose the correct electrodes

A rare trade with info on how to weld aluminium correctly.

Loads here on all type of welding

videos

videos on metal and welding (Arc and MIG)

DIY welding for punks

on equipment

uk welder forum

gasless MIG

Extract from wiki 18 steps
(warning from my instructor: "never weld without protection gear on."):

Learn the steps for creating a successful weld. Welding is more than dragging a welding rod across a piece of steel and gluing it to another one. The process begins with properly fitting and securing the work pieces, or metal to be welded, together. For thicker pieces, you may want to grind a bevel so subsequent beads can be placed in the groove to fill it completely with a solid weld. Here are the basic steps for completing a simple weld.

• Strike the arc. This is the process of creating an electric arc between the electrode and the workpiece. If the electrode simply allows the current to pass directly into the grounded work piece, there will not be enough heat produced to melt and fuse metal together.
• Move the arc to create a bead. The bead is the metal from the melting electrode flowing together with molten metal from the base metal to fill the space between the pieces being joined by welding.
• Shape the weld bead. This is done by weaving the arc back and forth across the weld path either in a zig zag or figure 8 motion so the metal spreads to the width that you want your finished weld bead to be.
• Chip and brush the weld between passes. Each time you complete a pass, or trip from one end to the other of your weld, you need to remove the slag, or the melted electrode flux material, from the surface of the weld bead so only clean molten metal will be filling the weld on the subsequent pass.

http://alec.tamu.edu/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Y67TTX05uzY%3D&tabid=625

Conversion - Insulation

Ideas from people's experience on the net:

• Bubble wrap

• FOIL/ LOFT-ROOF INSULATION / WALL INSULATION / DAMP PROOF 

• Space Blanket Loft Roll Insulation 

   
  "Things to think about are weight, will it catch fire easily, how easy would it be to remove if working on body panels at a later date, will it hold moisture and also will it absorb smell, ie cooking etc if using in a camper conversion."

From the LDV sherpa forums

Stuff to read about

http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewforum.php?f=6
http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewforum.php?f=26 on kingpin
http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=4633 is it stolen?
http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=937 insurance database
http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewforum.php?f=6 Help for Pilot
http://www.ldv-sherpa.co.uk/viewforum.php?f=7 web links
http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=1007 motorhome/self built insurance

Conversion of a LDV Pilot van into a camper

A blog on converting a LDV Pilot van

Very nice example

sundownpilot.blogspot

http://www.ldvcamper.com

http://camperconversion.blogspot.co.uk/

http://www.convertyourvan.co.uk

http://www.campervanlife.com/building/planing-camper-van-conversion

An interesting different option

http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=1951