Starter motor click? on your van

That's a classic one on the LDV vans and on many a vehicle.

There's a CLICK sounds with a metallic springy tone to it sometimes (if you listen well)

and the engine won;t crank up.

Below is a video that someone took the time to do well to explain what's it's all about

so I thought I'll add it up on here to my little library of valuable videos on vehicle mechanics and engineering...

A procedure to help you fault find your gearbox & manual transmission problem(s)

Gearstick stiff? Gears Not engaging? Soft clutch pedal?

If your clutch pedal is down or soft it could be a lack of pressure in the hydraulic system (hydraulic system=fluid reservoir+slave cylinder+pipe+master cylinder ). 

But this would be guessing an guessing with mechanic repairs is waste of time, energy and money.

1/ check the clutch fluid level in the reservoir > If level is low there might be a leak

2/ check for leaks around all connections of the hydraulic system. Clean up everywhere and give it another chance to leak (time or a little ride?) so it becomes visible.

 If you find a leak there might be air in the system > This make the clutch hard to operate.

3/ Bleed the air from the system (it’s an easy task and this potential fault will be either fixed or ruled out).

For bleeding there are 2 ways : 

1/pumping the clutch pedal method

2/using a one-man-bleeding kit

(google these or I can send you links on how to do this)

If bleeding doesn’t sort the problem out, it can be due to either the slave cylinder (at gearbox bell housing level) or the master cylinder (fluid reservoir level) or both. Although these 2 are strong and don’t usual fail. Mechanics often replace both. (BUT for us LDVers it can prove difficult to find the right part - but not impossible). Check out http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk (they stock rover parts which is what we have on our pilots SD1rover gearbox LT77 or R380 - check the manuals on LDV files).

If you need replacing parts you will first need to identify your gearbox (a ref number is stamped on it and you can cross reference it with manuals)

This is the easiest bits to do. As in where you don’t need to take the gearbox down to replace parts inside (although this is not very hard to do but more work).

The next easy is to check and replace the selector shaft yoke (although this is hard to find new).

If the cylinders are ok, it can be the nylon bush in the selector shaft yoke (nylon wears off but you need replace the whole yoke as what Im holding on photo).

you might as well check the levels of AND replace the gearbox oil (with the correct one). I have a good link for a video on how to do this and which oil to use assuming your gearbox is a R380.

If none of these work out, It can also be  the clutch arm pivot, the fork, or even the clutch disc that need replacement.  All these are inside the gearbox.

That's a near enough diagram of your hydraulic system so you get an idea (I assume your Pilot is similar to mine from your photo).

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note: I try the best I can to follow professional experienced mechanic guidance and advices but I'm NOT a qualified mechanic, this is what I figure out as I work on my vehicle using all available help around me, real people, written manuals, online videos etc)

Another rainy day and a van not starting

It happened again.

Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: glowplugs get on but a clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.

I was wrong. It never was the battery neg earth connection.

I swapped my glowplugs control and relay for a tested one so it is not the cause.

Ii looks more like it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).

I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays and replace the bugger one.

For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.

The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, checking and wiping the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.

The video below is (imho) the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.

Thanks to Ratchets and wrenches.

[UPDATE]
It seems I have found the culprit.

I forgot that it's good practice to do as much diagnosing from the cabin.
I should have started there, with all doors shut.
I noticed that the driver's side indicator flashlight was flashing faster than the passenger's side.

The sound was similar to the one I heard from the relay.
I remember that touching the light bulb fitting once made something react when I was trying to figure out what was going wrong from the bonnet side.
So it clicked. I mean it clicked in my head.
and the friend who was my passenger at the time said it:
"you have a dead bulb".
I checked and he was correct.

It wasnt the earth, it wasn't the rain.
It was a defectuous old bulb that caused the circuit to disfunction.
It's replace with a new one now.
Let's see if anything else comes up!

A procedure to remove Burman 30-370 steering box on LDV Pilot 2003 (400 serie with DW8 peugeot engine)

Pilots' pilots.

Here is my two cents procedure and suggestions to remove your steering box on your own.

This is a long post so here is the start of it and I'll finalise it when I'll get more time.

Tools

• Jack
• 3 axle stands (one to support engine)
• copper hammer
• pitman arm puller
• ratchet
• 3/4W socket [drop arm]
• 22mm socket [tie rod end]
• lump hammer
• 13mm spanner/socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm spanner
• 10mm
• hex key [vaccum pump]
• oil cap and container
• tipex corrector
• manuals (available free on LDV files)

First and foremost, immobilise your vehicle properly and don't go under until it's firmly and steadily set up on axle stands on a flat surface because since you have a van there are people who need you and they won't like you anymore if you are as flat as a pancake because it dropped onto your face as you were working under it to repair it. Stay in shape, make it stable!

Lift up front of van high as to have enough room for arm movements.

Take off driver side wheel.

Take down tie rod end from drop arm

method used: Bang Bang (see pic) but on the right spot (see other pic)

other methods: fork etc will write up later

Take down drop arm

method used: Pitman arm puller (less than £10 online)

other methods: 

Heat drop arm around shaft (risk! Not so much as to melt seal inside).Hit both side of drop arm with similar lump hammers.

will write up later

Get caps and empty containers ready to stop and deal with oil spills.

Unscrew 2 pipes from box (from reservoir and from high pressure supply pipe), leave short pipe on as it’s connected to box only. Leave to empty itself.

In cabin, remove dashboard part under steering wheel (and around ignition barrel?).

In engine bay, put steering column to straight and mark placement of shaft with steering column coupling shaft to remember (I use tipex corrector) [check manual around this issue as I think it can be worked out in some other way when refitting but always good to make marks in case it helps] and remove completely pinch bolts from steering wheel shaft.

In cabin, support the steering column and remove the 2 nuts and plate that hold the column (note that here you might have to remove a plastic part that connects the shaft to the body where it goes through to the engine bay. I think I read it’s recommended to do this before removing the nuts and plate - it’s broken and missing on mine so I didn’t have to). No need to disconnect any but watch out for cables and not to reap any off.

plate/bracket supporting column above

 

broken bit on mine

steering column coupling shaft out from steering box upper shaft (above)

Pull shaft up until about 3/4 inches are left on engine bay side (or whatever is enough to get steering column coupling shaft out).

Disconnect the high pressure supply pipe from the engine crossmember (clips)

SUPPORT THE ENGINE PROPERLY (see manual and pancake story at beginning of this post)

and undo the 2 bolts and  the plate at bottom of steering box.

Remove 3 bolts holding steering box.

Remove the vacuum pump (very easy 1 bolt, 1 hex bolt)

Getting the box out.

Method I used:

Get a copper hammer (thanks Tony Norbury for this and many more tips) and hit at the bottom of box on the side facing the back of the van.

That should rotate the bottom of the box upward toward the front of the van

so you can access the 2 bolts of the box lower mounting fixing where the crossmember was connected.

At the start I did hammer the box down from the top, hitting on the place where the hole for the right hand top bolt was (when still in place) This made it rotate a bit more but not that much and it was noisy, exhausting and not so efficient so I came up with the following solution.

This is what I called the Gap of Hope. The rotation started showing some progress. and my biceps to cry.
Also the lower little white arrow show where I was hitting to rotate the box in the opposite direction.

Get a L-shaped bracket (thick metal) with a hole of similar size to bolt. The shortest the short side of the L shape is the better I reckon, and the longest the long side is best too but not crucial as it can be extended.

You should also find a short bit of metal with similar thickness to even up pressure from the side of the other bolt - so as not to bend the original plate.

Bolt this bracket and the short bit under the plate where the crossmember was.

You have made yourself a lever and you can now rotate the box indefinitely until it comes out.

Lubricant where/when possible helps. There was quite some rust around mine.

You can remove the box one out from under through where the vacuum pump was.

Think the box outside.

Done.

Amazing power of the mind.

Many thanks to all from Club LDV who have helped with ideas and suggestions all throughout.

Now for the refit...

Toolbox of Land Rover videos for LDV vans owners

I have found this youtube channel (below) very useful and informative:
Land Rover Toolbox Videos
The videos are professionally made, clear and to the point and have lots of tips.
It has  helped me find out about my gearbox and steering so far.

Here is a video that show how to refill your R380 gearbox oil:

and one about steering check basics:

Check it out!

As Darren from Club LDV often reminds us (!!!), LDVs has lots in common with the Rover SD1
(they share British Leyland group heritage) - Rover SD1 infos and more infos

Although they know little about LDVs they do have corresponding parts (at cheaper cost) so you might want to take a look at the Rimmer bros online shop that sells SD1 parts.
(Note: This is NOT advertising, just sharing knowledge).

How many perfectly working spark plugs have we discarded?

Needless to say I bear a lot of guilt on the subject..
The video underneath from ElectronicNmore  show us how to determine whether a spark plug is a working one or not.
Just about time!
Big thanks to you ElectronicNmore guys.

Cure to the frustration of rounded bolts and nuts!

Yet another life-changing tip from Scotty Kilmer (his website) in one of his videos.
Personally I never had many good tools to work on mechanic "projects" and when I started to get a handful of decent ones I still couldn't get my head around this frustrating situation of a rounded nut or bolt, whether on bicycles, cars, vans or whatever that's held with nuts & bolts.
This is like an epiphany to me! That tool's inventor I want to hug!
Check out the video below to know the full story.

Thanks a bunch for that one Scotty Kilmer. Here is Scotty's video channel. Some people comment that they can't take the way he speaks. I only see a lot of life, positivity and no nonsense in his tone (which I like it if you asked me but you didn't) and it also comes from the video editing that is fast and furious. He also does Live talk as mechanic online.
As a film-making enthusiast I ought to ask him who is the videographer behind the youtube content and how they work together on the script!

How to deal with rusty stuck bolts - Tips from a mechanic

Almighty ever energetic Scotty Kilmer gives out a great tip for LDV vans DIY owners in his video!
He uses heat from a torch!
Check it out!
Are you asking yourself why I am using so many of those these marks !!! at the end of my sentences!!!?
WELL THAT'S WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU WATCH A FEW VIDEOS OF Scotty Kilmer's videos!!!

I am a fan!!!

(I couldn't resist drawing that one for my cartoon and caricature blog.)

Engine epihany and anatomy with a very instructive video on the basic of engines parts

Recently I'm having an epiphany. I am starting to understand how engines works (it's about time).

That's thanks to a lot of hours reading, listening and watching as well as keeping my nails dirty.
It's not like I have a choice; I got two engines (diesel and petrol) and no money to pay for a mechanic and do my Qigong routine each morning to nurture my self-confidence and solution finding mindset as opposed to giving in to despair and disproportionate amount of colourful language.
This formula seems to work with lots of advice and guidance from anywhere I can get.

Now I am re-watching the video below from Eric the car guy (who's on that big online social network) and it's making sense (!). I can feel the shifts in my brains when I hear camshaft and timing belt. Enough about my godly revelation, here is the video:

(Thanks for all the work you put in doing these videos Eric.)

Gearbox - How does a manual transmission clutch work?

What is a manual transmission clutch and how does it work?

If you are like me you can drive for years and have a 'feel' or a basic understanding of that is a clutch
but you still don't understand what it really is on a vehicle and how it operates.
I'm done with daily use of things I don't understand so I looked on the net for readings and among others, I found this article and very straight to the point video from Howstuffwork.
It tells and shows the various parts flywheel, crankshaft, input shaft, pressure plate, clutch disc and explains how friction is used to connect elements and get power to your wheels for spinning.

So now you should know what is really happening when you hear a horrible grinding noise:
it's the sound of the friction between the flywheel and the clutch disc which is made of ceramic based materials in today's cars (asbestos in some older cars).

If you still don't get it, have a read of this article about transmission on Howstuffwork
and watch more videos.

If you prefer real images to animations, watch Ericthecarguy's very articulate take on the topic

What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine? - Just a reminder

Just a reminder to self:

"What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine?

Petrol engine:

• In petrol engines fuel is mixed with air
• then forced into the cylinders
• where the fuel-air mix is compressed by the pistons
• and ignited by spark plugs.

Diesel engine:

• In a diesel engine the air is compressed before the fuel is added to it.
• When air is compressed it heats up. This means that when the fuel is added to the compressed air it is very hot and the fuel-air mix ignites automatically. (So there are no spark plugs in a diesel engine as pressure is used to ignite the fuel-air mix.")

source

Brilliant animated demonstration of the working of a diesel engine on Thomas Schwenke online channel

LDV Pilot and Convoy vans - Basic advice on replacing the kin pins

How and what tools do you need to replace the king pins on a Pilot or a Convoy LDV van?
In 2 posts, quoting from auto banter:

Paul[_5_] external usenet poster Posts: 70

LDV pilot - convoy Whats the going rate for a king pin change - mine needs doing and I swore blind never to do another myself ;-) Also, is front axle same off convoy, can get a complete one with new pins for £100.. seems like a much nicer option!

#4 (permalink)    October 12th 09, 10:32 PM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance

Paul[_4_] external usenet poster Posts: 41

LDV pilot - convoy Pins are only £29.. which makes up for the fact you either take the axle off and take it somewhere with a press, or spend three days with a sledge hammer beating the fcuk out of it...

(3 days? Some say a week)

#5 (permalink)    October 14th 09, 11:53 AM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance

Mrcheerful external usenet poster Posts: 1,691

LDV pilot - convoy a big air hammer takes them out in seconds.

(Don't forget to grease them well)

Diagnosing head gasket symptoms - Head gasket failure types

Someone I know was worried the head gasket in their car had blown.
That's usually a right reason to worry as this gasket plays a major role in the running of the engine and usually entails costly repairs.
I look for some informations as to how to understand why it happens and how it happens.
This link explains the various head gasket failure types and this one gives infos about blown head gasket symptoms.

Hope that helps!

How a car works guide!

Here is a good guide on how a car works with 24 articles on the basics of car mechanic, body work and everything you need to know about your vehicle if you want to learn or try a little or a lot of DIY repairing!

There is also many more articles (288 in total) accessible for free from the front page of the howacarworks website.

You can see them all at a glance on this page.

Enjoy!

A guide to changing your diesel vehicle's engine oil

This very well illustrated article will show you how to replace the oil in your diesel engine.
Read it on the brilliant enginebasics.com website
along with this article explaining the importance of clean oil in your engine.

Learn the basics of diesel engine maintenance

I found this very clear article which lists and explains what minimum basic maintenance should be done on a diesel engine, read below or read the full article here on fourthgen.net.

"Changing the lubricating oil - This is usually necessary on a more frequent basis than gasoline engines - generally every 3000 miles

Changing the air filter - Since diesel engines experience high intake pressures, the air filtering system is important to not only filter media but also to cool the air.

Changing the oil filter - while a gasoline engine may give less mileage or performance with a dirty fuel filter, this can be more serious in the case of a diesel engine where dirty fuel can damage a diesel engine's fuel injection system. The filter should meet or exceed the standards suggested by manufacturer so that sulphur and carbon residue are removed. Synthetic oil is also recommended.

Early warning system - The early warning system that warns of engine overheating should be checked for functionality. A gasoline engine if overheated can be shut off, cooled down and restarted. However if a diesel engine gets overheated, it will be damaged.

Changing the fuel filter - It is important the change the fuel filter as recommended by the manufacturer in order to prevent condensation from building up and getting into the fuel injectors. The fuel tank should also be kept full to avoid moisture forming.

Gaskets should be checked and replaced on all critical areas especially in the combustion mounting areas and coolant hoses.

Bleeding the fuel system - While some diesel engines have self bleeding systems, others which do not, need to have the fuel system bled to get a steady air free flow of fuel. This becomes necessary after any of the following situations have occured. Running out of fuel.

2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.

3. Replacing fuel filter.

4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.

5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.

6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.

7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.

8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.

Draining the water separators - Since diesel fuel absorbs water more than gasoline, it can get contaminated very easily. Therefoer most diesel engine vehicles have a water separator that collects water from fuel. This water needs to be drained regularly from the separator using a drain valve called a petcock. Some water separators are self-draining.

Glow plugs - Glow plugs enable a diesel engine to get heated for combustion to take place. After prolonged use, these can wear out and may need to be replaced.

Installing an engine heating kit for diesel engines are especially useful in winter when diesel engines are hard to start. This saves fuel and prolongs the life of the diesel engine while cutting down on exhaust emissions. It also eliminates the need for idling which cause wear and tear on the internal parts of a diesel engine not to mention unnecessary fuel consumption."

I collected a few more links on the topic: http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/9-top-diesel-engine-maintenance-tips http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/diesel_maintenance.html http://answers.practicalaction.org/our-resources/item/diesel-engine-repair-maintenance (This website looks amazing) and finally if you are into boating, there is a course in Brighton: http://www.lagoon.co.uk/shore-based-courses/course/diesel-engine-maintenance-course/135

 

How the biggest diesel marine engine in the world works!

Another post about how engines work, diesel engines with a short documentary about the most powerful diesel marine engine in the world.

 

 Skip forward to about 2:05 to see the piston in action of this 2000 tonnes marine engine
and understand how internal combustion engines function.

How an internal combustion engine works - Old Ford engine example

I really enjoy learning and understanding how these old internal combustion engines work. This video presents a Ford motor that has been opened up for people to see how it works. Enjoy!

Replacing the accelerator cable tutorial

The mystery of the slowest van is finally solved.

The cable of my LDV Pilot van snapped off the other night while I was driving.

I rang Channels Commercials but they didn't have it in stock and offered to order it for early next week.

I needed the van operational for Saturday morning so it wasn't good enough. I rang KSL garage services who didn't have it either but directed to LDV Parts. They had it and could deliver on friday morning.

When I bought the van 2 years ago I was told its only downside was that it had been fitted with a speed-limiter and sometimes would run slow. It didn't do it when I test drove it.

Then it was getting slower and slower. Driving was harder and harder too as I had to press the gas pedal hard t get the van to pull its own weight only. I tried changing the oil filter but nothing much happened. It was getting slower. I heard about some of these vans had been fited with long rear axles to protect the gearbox (exRM van) which requires double work from the engine.

When I changed the cable today I tried it out and to my surprise the van is very responsive and fast... as should be I guess... It's like having a new van! No more gym work for my right leg.

Here is a tutorial on how to replace the accelerator cable. It's an easy enough task.
First I unscrewed this part to let the cable loose with spanner 9 or 10 (metric system. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.)

It's a bit tricky to take off and fit back the cable end from the (beige) plastic part

(which is not supplied with the new cable = breaking it is not an option).

What worked for me is to hold back the spring and push down the end. This released the cable.  

I removed the accordeon pipe (2 philips head screws)

to access the nuts seen on the next blurry pics.

It also has a rubber ring (LDV S&M).

Inside the cabin,

I unmounted the nuts holding the gas pedal to release the cable from it.

Never mind the spring. Just replace it as is when mounting back.

Have a good look at how the cable end fits in the slots on top of the head of the pedal.

The cable end looks like a bicycle one.

Can't recall the nuts size but i reckon was between12 and 15.

I used these (cheapest I could get) tools but it'd be better to use shorter deep sockets.

This is the old cable's rubber housing. It was well bent and snapped.

Let's admire both beautiful ends of the rubber housing.

Here is where the cable clips in and goes from boot to cabin.

I filed the hole in the body to make it go through the body.

Perhaps a better idea is to slighlty file the cable end as it seems it had been done on the old cable

but I chose no to take the risk to overdo it and to not be able to fit it correclty afterward.

Hope that helps.

If you have any question please post it in the comment.

I can't always reply as I'm a busy bee but take a look at this page for suggestions to get support from the international online LDV community.

Enjoy your LDV Pilot van ride!

Body and Chassis - Automobile History

source: http://www.motorera.com/history/hist09.htm

I am spending some time under the van because I'm installing a towbar.
It got me thinking of the rarely seen part of cars and vans that's holing it together, the chassis. There I found an educative article on the subject.

"Unlike the first engine and chassis builders, who had no precedents to follow, the first auto body engineers represented an old established craft. It mattered little to them whether vehicles were to be propelled by a gasoline engine, electric power, or steam. Their task was the same as in the days of chariots: to construct a conveyance that would carry people.
The body builders contended that if carriages were good enough for horses, they were good enough for engines. They were even given carriage names -- phaeton, brougham, tonneau, landaulet, and wagonette.
Don't get the idea that early body engineers were a stodgy conservative bunch. When it came to trying new structural concepts and materials, they were as radical as the engine and chassis guys -- so much so, in fact, that practically every body structural technique in use today had been tried by 1920, even gluing bodies together. (...)"
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