LDV Pilot with a DW8 pug - A silent video on changing a head gasket

It is not the best tutorial (also because it's subtitled in french) but it gives you a good idea of the amount of work involved to change a head gasket on a DW8 peugeot engine.

Engine epihany and anatomy with a very instructive video on the basic of engines parts

Recently I'm having an epiphany. I am starting to understand how engines works (it's about time).

That's thanks to a lot of hours reading, listening and watching as well as keeping my nails dirty.
It's not like I have a choice; I got two engines (diesel and petrol) and no money to pay for a mechanic and do my Qigong routine each morning to nurture my self-confidence and solution finding mindset as opposed to giving in to despair and disproportionate amount of colourful language.
This formula seems to work with lots of advice and guidance from anywhere I can get.

Now I am re-watching the video below from Eric the car guy (who's on that big online social network) and it's making sense (!). I can feel the shifts in my brains when I hear camshaft and timing belt. Enough about my godly revelation, here is the video:

(Thanks for all the work you put in doing these videos Eric.)

What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine? - Just a reminder

Just a reminder to self:

"What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine?

Petrol engine:

• In petrol engines fuel is mixed with air
• then forced into the cylinders
• where the fuel-air mix is compressed by the pistons
• and ignited by spark plugs.

Diesel engine:

• In a diesel engine the air is compressed before the fuel is added to it.
• When air is compressed it heats up. This means that when the fuel is added to the compressed air it is very hot and the fuel-air mix ignites automatically. (So there are no spark plugs in a diesel engine as pressure is used to ignite the fuel-air mix.")

source

Brilliant animated demonstration of the working of a diesel engine on Thomas Schwenke online channel

A guide to changing your diesel vehicle's engine oil

This very well illustrated article will show you how to replace the oil in your diesel engine.
Read it on the brilliant enginebasics.com website
along with this article explaining the importance of clean oil in your engine.

How the biggest diesel marine engine in the world works!

Another post about how engines work, diesel engines with a short documentary about the most powerful diesel marine engine in the world.

 

 Skip forward to about 2:05 to see the piston in action of this 2000 tonnes marine engine
and understand how internal combustion engines function.

The basics of engines: the intake manifold

I keep learning about how engines works because I'm determined to educate myself about the topic.
This is a good site that explains lots about engine components.
There are many more good well illustrated articles but this one is about the intake manifold.

How engines work - videos and read

I am really trying to understand how eninges work as much as I can. And keep it in my head!
So here are more links about the topic:

videos

Article about internal combustion engines.

A bit further with "understanding camshafts"

and with "Dummys Guide to Understanding Your Car Engine" we get the list of the car engine components along with images.

How engines work- A good article with a clear explanation

The clearest explanation of how an engine works in my opinion
from a lawn mower company...
I'm no engineer. Although I could understand separate functions, how engines work is still something I couldn't put together in my head.
Up until I read this article.
Hopefully that'll be helpful for the van and further if I get into boat as I'm thinking of.

This link is an article about " 4 common small engine problems and how to fix them" from the same website. That should be useful with the boating as I will probably start off with a cruiser's 4 strokes than a narrowboat with a diesel engine...

Understanding Small Engines

What are the essentials of a four-stroke engine?

The biggest difference between small engines and other types of engines is their small capacity and simplicity of design. Small engines generate very modest amounts of power - generally no more than 25 HP - compared to a typical family car (up to 200 HP). And a small engine's size makes it easier to maintain and repair.
Since small engines are designed for simple tasks like cutting grass and turning soil, their designs are fairly uncomplicated. Unlike cars and other vehicles that frequently accelerate, slow down or idle for long periods, small engines either run at constant speed or change speed slightly to handle modes changes in the "load," such as when a lawnmower hits a patch of thick grass.
Also, unlike car engines, small engines don't have to fit under a hood or make room for countless computers and other devices. This makes small engine parts easier to install, adjust and remove. You can reach most small engine parts with a few turns of a wrench.

Essentials Of The Four-Stroke Engine

Here, in its simplest form, is how a four-stroke engine works:
When you pull the rope, known as a rewind cord, or use your electric starter, precise amounts of fuel and filtered air mix in the carburetor. The mixture rushes into the engine to be compressed, ignited and burned in a controlled process known as internal combustion. Hot gases are produced. As the gases expand, they push a smooth, well-lubricated cylindrical component, known as the piston. The piston, in turn, drives the crankshaft, the arm that spins a blade or performs other work. Valves let air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston and allow spent gases to exit through the muffler.
The whole process involves four piston strokes and is designed to become self-sustaining from the time the engine starts until the moment it stops. Timed electrical surges cause the spark plug to fire repeatedly inside the combustion chamber, igniting each fresh supply of air and fuel and producing gases that continually drive the piston and crankshaft.
All the while, oil from the crankcase and air circulate to keep engine temperatures within an acceptable range, and a governor monitors changes in the workload and adjusts engine speed accordingly.

Five Basic Systems

There are five systems at work in every small engine: Fuel Supply, Compression, Ignition, Lubrication/Cooling, and Governor (speed control).
Two other common systems are also discussed in detail. Some engine models - especially heavier-duty ones - may contain a starter motor, which requires an electrical system to charge the battery.
Most small engines sold in the past 10-15 years include a braking system as well. This is designed to protect you and others by stopping the engine quickly if you let go of the controls.
In short, five systems generate the power to spin a blade, turn a wheel or perform other work. Two others may be included for safety and convenience. The following will familiarize you with the major parts in these systems and the essentials of how they work.

Engine Components And Their Function

Here's how the components in your engine interact:

1. The rewind cord is pulled to start the combustion process. On some models, a starter motor replaces the rewind, drawing on battery power to start the engine.
   
2. Revolving magnets work in conjunction with the ignition armature and spark plug to produce a spark in the combustion chamber.
   
3. The carburetor draws in fuel from the fuel tank and outside air to form a combustible vapor that is fed into the combustion chamber.
   
4. Intake and exhaust valve open and close at precisely timed intervals to let air and fuel enter the engine and to let spent gases exit.
   
5. The piston is pushed through the cylinder by the force of expanding gases. The piston's motion causes the crankshaft to turn. Momentum then carries the piston back toward the top of the cylinder.
   
6. Oil stored in the crankcase circulates through the engine to lubricate key components like the piston and crankshaft and to provide generalized cooling by drawing away heat from internal engine surfaces.
   
7. A flywheel brake and stop switch are included on engines for equipment such as mower that require constant supervision. The two components are designed to stop the engine if you release the controls.
   
8. An air vane or flyweights monitor engine RPMs so the governor can maintain the selected engine speed.
   
9. Cooling fins help reduce engine temperatures when air circulate across the hottest engine surfaces.
   

THE way to clean up old dirty oil (vegetable oil)

" After a decade running WVO on the same engine [now heading for 400,000 in my Pilot] I have found THE way to clean up old dirty oil. After a long time settling and only drawing off above the 'gunk line' treat yourself and buy a centrifuge, NOT a small spinner, they're useless. Get a decent machine such as one from usfiltermaxx, not cheap but wow are they fast and efficient. You can easily clean 50 litres in an hour and the oil comes out like lager. If you'e not using twin tanks thoroughly mix with diesel before you spin it, I use a commercial stick blender. Although I always carry a spare filter I've not changed mine in the year I've had the machine and no tell-tale signs that I need so to do as yet."

Thanks to Beryl
on http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com
(http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com/post307.html#p307)

Almost any Diesel engine can be run on SVO

Almost any Diesel engine can be run on SVO (Straight Vegetable oil). You will need to know a few things however before you pop down to the supermarket and fill up on rape seed oil.
The type of injectors you have, the pump, the money you have to spend and the time of year will all play a role in the type of conversion you need. You are going to be faced with a few decisions and there are a few things you need to know.
1 Running on cooking oil fresh or not isn't free. You need to contact Customs and Excise and get yourself form EX103 but only if you use more than 2500L a year. You need do nothing unless you use more than 2500L in a year. With this you can register as a fuels producer. Each month you will be sent a form to declare how much oil you have used. You return this and payment to HMC&E and your all legal. You need do nothing but keep a record of your use if you use less than 2500L in a year.
2 Make BioDiesel or just use straight oil? Whichever you decide there is an abundance of information free on your favourite search engine. 'Search for Running on cooking oil' 'SVO' 'BioDiesel. Read everything you can. I know there is so much of it and most is conflicting. If you decided to go BioDiesel then read no further. Once you make your diesel fill up and go but remember Bio Diesel is more acidic than diesel but you will know this if you have made some. You may need to heat this in winter to allow good filter flow.
3 Ah you’re like me! I read the Bio blurb and decided I’m not a chemist and it all looks a little complicated. Ok decision number 2 SVO, WVO a mix perhaps. OK SVO straight fresh from the shop oils at 56-90p a litre. If you chose this then you are interested in the carbon neutrality and sustainability of running on veg oil. WVO mucky old used veg oil. Ok so you like the idea of saving the planet but want to save a few bob as well. Nothing wrong with that.
SVO Buy the cheapest oil you can rape or sunflower and that’s it.
WVO Collect your dirty oil from friends, restaurants, the local tip or wherever. Buy yourself a big bucket and a 5-micron sock filter (There on Ebay and very reasonable, No I don't sell them). Hang the sock over the bucket and pour your oil in the sock. Empty the bucket into containers. That’s it. Or perhaps a pump filter, costly but high output.
Small point but used oil is thick or solid; more so in winter. Try to collect liquid oil if you can. That is liquid at outdoor temperatures. This will be quicker to filter, easier to handle and wont set like lard in your car. The filters can be washed when they get blocked.
4 Ok so you have your 50 litres of clean or filtered oil what now? Now we face the biggest question of all, duel tank or single tank. They both have for and against. Duel tank can be expensive, hard to fit, you still need Bio or Diesel to start them but they do pose a lesser risk of wear on the injectors, pump and engine and are more suitable for Lucas pumps and HDi cars. Single tank can be cheap, harder to start in the cold and will wear the engine, pump and injectors quicker than a duel tank. How much quicker nobody yet knows. You need to decide which option you prefer.
Twin tank set-up
2 tanks. 1 with the oil (probably water heated if your smart) 1 with bio or diesel for starting and stopping on. A fuel switch, 6 port is probably the best. A switch and purge reminder (not essential). A heat exchanger (water, electric or both, discussed later) and probably a filter along with meters of hose and connectors to connect it all in with. Throw this lot at your best mate because he said you should go veg powered. Once fitted you start the car on bio or diesel. Once the coolant water is heated and the car warmed up the oil should be up to operating temp so you throw the switch and you’re a Greene unless you have already got to where you were going. At the end of the day or if you are leaving it for the day you need to get the oil out of the injectors and pump by purging with Bio or Diesel. Not very good if you are just nipping up town for a loaf of bread and a paper!
Single tank set-up
A heater. No honest that’s it. You need to heat the oil so it is thin like Diesel. You can do this electrically or with the coolant water or even both. Like I said before it does add to the wear and tear of the engine starting on cold veg but its quick and easy and very cheap.
You have 2 ways to heat your oil in the twin and single tank conversions. Electrically, plug in to the mains with a block heater, use a glow plug heater, use a 12v resistive wire heater. With water use a heat exchanger, hose on or hose in hose coil or a plate heater.
Ok there is a bit more to it. You will need to add some diesel to the oil in the single tank This is very important in the winter as the Diesel will help you to start in the morning and stop the oil from becoming a big block of lard in your tank. Water heaters take a long time to get hot so with the single tank conversion you should go electric as they heat very quickly. You can use water to supplement the electric but until you get it started there will be no warm water. You should add injector cleaner now and again. This has two benefits, first it helps remove any deposits from the burning of cold veg oil and it has a centane improver. (Centane is the opposite of Octane. High octane burns easy. High centain resists burning) in a diesel a high centain number is a good thing. Now that’s all there is to it.

A few things I just remembered. You need a good battery and alternator to go electric heating. Watch out for kits using copper, as it seems to react with WVO. If you are on a single tank start with a low mix of oil to diesel and work up. Whatever way you go make sure you change the oil and filters regularly. NO I mean it, you will regret it if you don’t.

Oh and the most important thing of ALL. When your done go to the nearest motor shop and buy 3 chrome letters about £1.50 each B I and O and add them to the badge on the boot. Now everybody will know that 'Your doing your bit for carbon reduction'

Replacing the glow plugs on DW8 diesel engine

 I need to replace the heat plugs of the DW8 since my van only start with a cold start spray shot if the temperature goes down or if the dampness is too much.
I had a look today but couldn't figure out how to take the air intake manifold out which is needed cause it blocks access to the plugs.
And lucky me found this from Liamautomechanic!
Thanks Liam!

replacing the glow plugs removing the inlet manifold citeron peugeot video


 If i get it correctly we have to take off and disconnect:

• 4 bolts (HEX wrench/ alen key 5) [b]>[/b]metal pipe from exhaust (screwdriver) 
• flexi pipe 
• electric plug at bottom
• water bottle to be moved out of the way

next step is to remove the nut on top of the heater plug.
He uses a 10 socket and a small ratchet to unscrew the plugs.

hopefully i dont need that:
+++ Day 2: All went well. It took me 2 or 3 hours not counting in the time it took to find the tools (I havent got that many and they re all scattered + when I went to buy the extension for the ratchet the shop employee got the key stuck in the display's lock...). What I needed was slightly different than on the above video which is normal since my engine is on a LDV Pilot 2003 DW8 diesel non turbo. Tools used:

• DW40 lubricant
• short arm HEX wrench/Allen key 5 (not sure of the size though) 
• medium or long arm HEX wrench/Allen key (bigger size but again I don't know exactly 
• flat screwdriver pair of pliers 
• socket 7mm
• deep socket 10mm (for plugs) 
• ratchet 
• ring offset spanner (or deep socket wrench) 8mm light 
• set of new plugs... 

Before anything give the plugs a good DW40 bath...
First unscrew the Allen head bolts.  These with long arm Allen wrench:

 These with the short arm smaller hex wrench

Next unscrew the air intake pipe collar with the flat screw driver.

snap open the clip-on collar of the metal pipe from the exhaust using the screwdriver too.

If you disconnect these two you can already pull out the air intake manifold that covers the engine head and prevents access to the glow plugs.
Then you can start unpluging the flexi pipes (there are 2 of them) and the electric plug. They are located close-by the air intake connection.
You can see the plug here and the red labelled flexi pipe - connected beside each other. Right behind is the third flexi pipe which connects underneath.

The third flexi pipe.

Disconnect that bigger rubber pipe at the very back of the manifold (below the electrical ringed plastic pipes on the image) using the flat screwdriver. Pop it out like the pipe from the exhaust. Same clip-on collar type.

 

Lastly unscrew the bolt that hold these 2 electric wires right under that rubber pipe you just took off. Use the ring spanner or deep socket one 8mm for that job.
They are disconnected on the image.

 
 Pull out the manifold and you can now access the plugs.
Get your 7mm socket and your ratchet + extension to undo the bolts that hold the wire (sometimes a metal plate) between the plugs.

Once undone pull out the wire and change the socket to the deep 10mm one so you can get cracking on the plugs. Go carefully cause it seems they can break easily. I had no probs at all but maybe it was due to the DW40 bath?
It's appropriate to clean around the plugs before you take them out or else just make sure nothing gets in their hole when taken out and when placing in the new ones. A reasonable amount of grease on the thread of the new ones is probably a good idea too.

The old ones on mine looked like that:

No wonder why the engine wouldn't start as soon as the temperature would go down...

Once you re done with the new ones, go all the way backwards:

1. electric cables at the back
2. rubber pipe at the back (bit of a pain to close the collar back - I used a pair of pliers)
3. flexi pipes x 2 by the air intake connection
4. electric plug by the air intake connection
5. Main air intake pipe to the manifold - tight up the collar back
6. Place the manifold where it should be
7. Metal pipe from the exhaust (pain as well -I used a pair of pliers which crunched flesh off my fingers)
8.  Screw back the Allen bolts

 that should tighten up everything.

If you did it correctly and hopefully this was just maintenance, the engine will start up right away as mine did.

Biodiesel - Lucas pump

That's 1.9 pug engine.
I need to post it here so I can post the image on the LDV sherpa II forum. http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com/








you can read the post on the forum. It's about

ldv convoy 2.5 td pug engine on biodiesel.

How car engines work! Diesel engine.

Diesel engine

Diesel Fuel Injection

source

One big difference between a diesel engine and a gas engine is in the injection process. Most car engines use port injection or a carburetor. A port injection system injects fuel just prior to the intake stroke (outside the cylinder). A carburetor mixes air and fuel long before the air enters the cylinder. In a car engine, therefore, all of the fuel is loaded into the cylinder during the intake stroke and then compressed. The compression of the fuel/air mixture limits the compression ratio of the engine -- if it compresses the air too much, the fuel/air mixture spontaneously ignites and causes knocking. Because it causes excessive heat, knocking can damage the engine.
Read more
The diesel engine uses a four-stroke combustion cycle just like a gasoline engine. The four strokes are:

• Intake stroke -- The intake valve opens up, letting in air and moving the piston down. ­
• Compression stroke -- The piston moves back up and compresses the air.
• Combustion stroke -- As the piston reaches the top, fuel is injected at just the right moment and ignited, forcing the piston back down.
• Exhaust stroke -- The piston moves back to the top, pushing out the exhaust created from the combustion out of the exhaust valve.

Remember that the diesel engine has no spark plug, that it intakes air and compresses it, and that it then injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber (direct injection). It is the heat of the compressed air that lights the fuel in a diesel engine.



#####

More on diesel

Diesel fuel has a higher energy density than gasoline. On average, 1 gallon (3.8 L) of diesel fuel contains approximately 155x10⁶ joules (147,000 BTU), while 1 gallon of gasoline contains 132x10⁶ joules (125,000 BTU). This, combined with the improved efficiency of diesel engines, explains why diesel engines get better mileage than equivalent gasoline engines.
Diesel fuel is used to power a wide variety of vehicles and operations. It of course fuels the diesel trucks you see lumbering down the highway, but it also helps move boats, school buses, city buses, trains, cranes, farming equipment and various emergency response vehicles and power generators. Think about how important diesel is to the economy -- without its high efficiency, both the construction industry and farming businesses would suffer immensely from investments in fuels with low power and efficiency. About 94 percent of freight -- whether it's shipped in trucks, trains or boats -- relys on diesel.
In terms of the environment, diesel has some pros and cons. The pros -- diesel emits very small amounts of carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and carbon dioxide, emissions that lead to global warming. The cons -- high amounts of nitrogen compounds and particulate matter (soot) are released from burning diesel fuel, which lead to acid rain, smog and poor health conditions.
You may have also heard of something called biodiesel. Is it the same as diesel? Biodiesel is an alternative or additive to diesel fuel that can be used in diesel engines with little to no modifications to the engines themselves. It's not made from petroleum -- instead it comes from plant oils or animal fats that have been chemically altered. (Interesting fact: Rudolf Diesel had originally considered vegetable seed oil as fuel for his invention.) Biodiesel can either be combined with regular diesel or used completely by itself.

How car engine works - parts

glow plug
Some diesel engines contain a glow plug. When a diesel engine is cold, the compression process may not raise the air to a high enough temperature to ignite the fuel. The glow plug is an electrically heated wire (think of the hot wires you see in a toaster) that heats the combustion chambers and raises the air temperature when the engine is cold so that the engine can start.
source: howstuffworks.com
Glow plugs are used to heat the combustion chambers of some diesel engines in cold conditions to help ignition at coldstart. In the tip of the glow plug is a coil of a resistive wire or a filament which heats up when electricity is connected.
source: 4engines.blogspot.co.uk

the “one-minute of silence.” 

 Fuel pump
A fuel pump is a frequently (but not always) essential component on a car or other internal combustion engined device. Many engines (older motorcycle engines in particular) do not require any fuel pump at all, requiring only gravity to feed fuel from the fuel tank through a line or hose to the engine. But in non-gravity feed designs, fuel has to be pumped from the fuel tank to the engine and delivered under low pressure to the carburetor or under high pressure to the fuel injection system.
source: wikipedia


Distributor
A distributor is a device in the ignition system of an internal combustion engine that routes high voltage from the ignition coil to the spark plugs in the correct firing order.
source: Wikipedia

Carburator
a device that blends air and fuel for an internal combustion engine.
source: Wikipedia 

 Read more from howstuffworks.com

Read about classic cars carbs

What does a carburetor do? The carburetor has several functions: 1) it combines gasoline and air creating a highly combustible mixture, 2) it regulates the ratio of air and fuel, and 3) it controls the engine's speed. How a carburetor mixes fuel and air When the piston moves down the cylinder on the intake stroke it draws air from the cylinder and intake manifold. A vacuum is created that draws air from the carburetor. The airflow through the carburetor causes fuel to be drawn from the carburetor through the intake manifold past the intake valves and into the cylinder. The amount of fuel mixed into the air to obtain the required air to fuel ratio is controlled by the venturi or choke. When air flows through the venturi its speed increases and the pressure drops. This causes the fuel to be sucked into the air stream from a hole or jet. When the engine is at idle or at rapid acceleration there is not enough air passing through the venturi to draw fuel. To overcome these problems other systems are used. Delivering gasoline to the carburetor Gasoline is delivered to the carburetor by the fuel pump and is stored in the fuel bowl. To keep this level of fuel stored in the bowl constant under all conditions a float system is used. A float operated needle valve and seat at the fuel inlet is used to control the fuel level in the bowl. If the fuel level drops below a certain level the float lowers and opens the valve letting more fuel in. When the float rises it pushes the inlet valve against the seat and shuts off the flow of fuel into the bowl.		Controlling the speed of the engine The throttle controls the speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air fuel allowed in the engine. The throttle is a butterfly valve located after the venturi and is opened by pressing on the gas pedal. The farther the valve is opened the more air/fuel mixture is let into the engine and the faster the engine runs. At low engine speeds when the throttle is only open a little there is not enough air flow to pull in fuel. Ports Two ports are used to solve this problem. One port located in the low pressure area and the idle port located below. At low engine speeds both ports draw fuel to keep the engine running. As engine speed increases fuel from the 2 ports decreases until it stops completely. Handling low speeds When the engine is idle there is very little air flowing through the venturi because the throttle valve is closed. The idle port allows the engine to operate under this condition. Fuel is forced through the idle port because of a pressure differential between air in the fuel bowl and vacuum below the throttle valve. Idle fuel mixture is controlled by an adjustable needle valve. Handling high speeds At higher engine speeds more fuel is drawn from the main nozzle. Fuel comes from the fuel bowl through the fuel nozzle and into the throat of the carburetor where it mixes with air.
Types of carburetors There are 3 basic types of carburetors in use today. They are the one barrel, two barrel, and four barrel. Typically, the type of engine and its use will dictate which carburetor is used. In high performance engines multiple carburetors may be used to deliver the amount of fuel required. No matter what type of carburetor your engine uses, National Carburetors is your source for high quality carburetors. source: nationalcarburetors.com