Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photos. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

LDV Pilot rear wheel drum and hub: changing the wheel cylinder

Ok -

This is just some basic information on how I changed the rear wheel cylinder on a 2003 Pilot - I think most cylinders in most vehicles operate the same - I watched a few video's and saw various methods and fixings - here's what I found...

BTW - there is a way to do this without taking the shoes out - but I was going to change the shoes anyway.

Stuff I needed:
Research:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8k5GfTpZr4&list=PLD3_GkY1HOeh76Y-OeWRSKgRwUZUWQ8pB&index=2 << shows the basics, LDV Pilot is a slightly different fixing on the cylinder.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4HqLoDjVRA << bit slow but shows basic start to process

- Brake cleaner (spray) brake fluid EVERYWHERE> this really helped
- phillips screwdriver for drum retainer screw
- Pliers for spring removal
- axel stands x2 (and chocks for the front wheels)
- spanner (11?) to loosen the pipe fixing to the back of cylinder
- spanner for (8/10) loosening the bleed nipple
- new wheel cylinder, possibly brake shoes if they are soaked compromised through the brake fluid
- bleeding kit / bottle and pipe (see here at 5:37: http://youtu.be/V5O_pbC8R2E?t=5m37s )

1. Loosen the wheel nuts on the offending wheel, Chock the front wheels, jack up, stick the stands under the rear axel, one each side.
2. Take the wheel nuts off, then the wheel, then the handbrake.
3. Spin the drum - it should turn freely
4. find the retainer screw, take it out
The retainer screw half out of the drum
5. Either the drum slides off (not very likely) or you have to just keep hitting the drum with a hammer and turning it... it will eventually crack and begin to come off... like so;

Under the drum... this sight awaits...

6. Basically, I tool the springs out of their holes with a pair of pliers on my leatherman (thanks Ludo) but you can use long nose pliers or something else suitable... I didn't do it in any particular order, but laid the springs between the new shoes to note what went where...


 7. The handbrake is attached to the base of the right brake shoe - simply pull the metal outer cable spring back to expose the cable and slip from the fixture

handbrake cable end location 
8. With the cable and shoes removed, you can start taking the cylinder off> undo the brake pipe nut from the back of the cylinder- there will be some brake fluid leak from the pipe, you can find a way to stop the leak, such as the rubber cap for the bleed nipple.




9. Get the circlip off; slide the old cylinder away from the hub.

 10. Clean up the hub with brake cleaner, then time to fit the new cylinder; get the circlip on first as the pipe screws in easy.

New cylinder pipe and circlip on
 11. Thats the cylinder done really!

 12. Use some copper grease (I only had lithium here) just where the shoes rub on the hub to help prevent squealing - some on the back of the drum also (no pic) so its less likely to be a sod to get off the next time...


13. Get your shoes on!

14. Bleed the brakes (see video above in 'research')

As you can see here, I gave the old shoes a good clean, a brief very very fine sand, as I couldn't work out how to get this handbrake fixture off on of the shoes:


Its the next job:::

Hope this helps - let me know any questions/ advice!

Saturday, August 11, 2012

LDV Pilot van Parts - What does it look like? - Post 1

Power steering pump, Starter motor, Water pump...
More to come.
If you are wondering what they do, check out this site which explains how engines work.

Power steering pump for LDV pilot van

Starter motor for LDV pilot van
 
Starter motor for LDV pilot van


Starter motor for LDV pilot van

Water pump for LDV pilot van

Friday, August 10, 2012

vans comparisons

An interesting list of vans.
Read here.


New owner (4th)


Got the van on the 9th of august 2012 off an interesting car dealer from Mauritius in London UK.
It's a 2003 ex-Royal Mail red van.
It had 2 short-term owners (a DJ and a car dealer) after doing its time with the posties.
Ford banana engine 1900 cc in good running state:
  • valve or rocket cover gasket is worn but oil is not leaking badly
  • need checking of the cambelt (V-belt or serpentine belt?) as I hear a squeaky noise when the engine is running (should have been done when buying)
  • fitted with a speed-limiter so the clutch needs to be pushed far in
Body is in good general condition
  • rear bumper left side is going off (repairable or cheaply replaceable) as the rear left light is (cheaply replaceable) - this could mean that there had been a shock on the van but it doesn't look bad.




Had this been tempered with? Hard to tell. An advert on the web mentioned 60 000.... (??)

gaffotaped left rear light and notice the rear bumper has a different colour than the right one (sign of 'repair' = shock/accident)

Doors are generally well used


Interesting exhaust pipe which will need looking into...

the side sliding door works well but the lock doesn't always give the key back willingly

Not the actual engine on this van (which is very clean and looks almost new) but a DW8b euro 3 peugeot engine .