I've had to learn a lot about ignition for my boat that has a petrol engine
but I can't help thinking of the problem my van used to have.
I had replaced and checked fuses and relays over and over again.
Now I think I would check and clean or replace if necessary each and every ENDS of every cables in the ignition system of the van (including the ECU ones - although I had done some of this already)
but before this I would look into the ignition switch!
I don't have the van anymore anyway and to be honest I have enough work with this 1960's boat I own...
Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: glowplugs get on but a clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.
I was wrong. It never was the battery neg earth connection.
I swapped my glowplugs control and relay for a tested one so it is not the cause.
Ii looks more like it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).
I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays and replace the bugger one.
For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.
The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, checking and wiping the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.
The video below is (imho) the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.
I forgot that it's good practice to do as much diagnosing from the cabin.
I should have started there, with all doors shut.
I noticed that the driver's side indicator flashlight was flashing faster than the passenger's side.
The sound was similar to the one I heard from the relay.
I remember that touching the light bulb fitting once made something react when I was trying to figure out what was going wrong from the bonnet side.
So it clicked. I mean it clicked in my head.
and the friend who was my passenger at the time said it:
"you have a dead bulb".
I checked and he was correct.
It wasnt the earth, it wasn't the rain.
It was a defectuous old bulb that caused the circuit to disfunction.
It's replace with a new one now.
Let's see if anything else comes up!
Yet another life-changing tip from Scotty Kilmer (his website) in one of his videos.
Personally I never had many good tools to work on mechanic "projects" and when I started to get a handful of decent ones I still couldn't get my head around this frustrating situation of a rounded nut or bolt, whether on bicycles, cars, vans or whatever that's held with nuts & bolts.
This is like an epiphany to me! That tool's inventor I want to hug!
Check out the video below to know the full story.
Thanks a bunch for that one Scotty Kilmer. Here is Scotty's video channel. Some people comment that they can't take the way he speaks. I only see a lot of life, positivity and no nonsense in his tone (which I like it if you asked me but you didn't) and it also comes from the video editing that is fast and furious. He also does Live talk as mechanic online.
As a film-making enthusiast I ought to ask him who is the videographer behind the youtube content and how they work together on the script!
It is not the best tutorial (also because it's subtitled in french) but it gives you a good idea of the amount of work involved to change a head gasket on a DW8 peugeot engine.
I finally managed to get enough little coins to do an oil change to my dear LDV Pilot van.
And since I'm getting bigger oil leaks. One around the head gasket, two around the gearbox...
Here's a video from Eric the car guy that explains what's happened.
He speaks about the difference between liquid flow rate and viscosity; and about the mix of oil and combustion gases that wear the gaskets, rubber joints and metal parts. Those are the main culprits!
His very articulate way of sharing his knowledge and experience through talk and video works very well for me, it might as well for you.
Looks like there a gaskets replacement session ahead!
Recently I'm having an epiphany. I am starting to understand how engines works (it's about time).
That's thanks to a lot of hours reading, listening and watching as well as keeping my nails dirty.
It's not like I have a choice; I got two engines (diesel and petrol) and no money to pay for a mechanic and do my Qigong routine each morning to nurture my self-confidence and solution finding mindset as opposed to giving in to despair and disproportionate amount of colourful language.
This formula seems to work with lots of advice and guidance from anywhere I can get.
Now I am re-watching the video below from Eric the car guy (who's on that big online social network) and it's making sense (!). I can feel the shifts in my brains when I hear camshaft and timing belt. Enough about my godly revelation, here is the video:
(Thanks for all the work you put in doing these videos Eric.)
"What is the difference between a Petrol and Diesel Engine?
Petrol engine:
In petrol engines fuel is mixed with air
then forced into the cylinders
where the fuel-air mix is compressed by the pistons
and ignited by spark plugs.
Diesel engine:
In a diesel engine the air is compressed before the fuel is added to it.
When air is compressed it heats up. This means that when the fuel is added to the compressed air it is very hot and the fuel-air mix ignites automatically. (So there are no spark plugs in a diesel engine as pressure is used to ignite the fuel-air mix.")
Someone I know was worried the head gasket in their car had blown.
That's usually a right reason to worry as this gasket plays a major role in the running of the engine and usually entails costly repairs.
I look for some informations as to how to understand why it happens and how it happens.
This link explains the various head gasket failure types and this one gives infos about blown head gasket symptoms.
I found this very clear article which lists and explains what minimum basic maintenance should be done on a diesel engine,
read below or read the full article here on fourthgen.net.
"Changing the lubricating oil - This is usually necessary on a more frequent basis than gasoline engines - generally every 3000 miles
Changing the air filter - Since diesel engines experience high intake pressures, the air filtering system is important to not only filter media but also to cool the air.
Changing the oil filter - while a gasoline engine may give less mileage or performance with a dirty fuel filter, this can be more serious in the case of a diesel engine where dirty fuel can damage a diesel engine's fuel injection system. The filter should meet or exceed the standards suggested by manufacturer so that sulphur and carbon residue are removed. Synthetic oil is also recommended.
Early warning system - The early warning system that warns of engine overheating should be checked for functionality. A gasoline engine if overheated can be shut off, cooled down and restarted. However if a diesel engine gets overheated, it will be damaged.
Changing the fuel filter - It is important the change the fuel filter as recommended by the manufacturer in order to prevent condensation from building up and getting into the fuel injectors. The fuel tank should also be kept full to avoid moisture forming.
Gaskets should be checked and replaced on all critical areas especially in the combustion mounting areas and coolant hoses.
Bleeding the fuel system - While some diesel engines have self bleeding systems, others which do not, need to have the fuel system bled to get a steady air free flow of fuel. This becomes necessary after any of the following situations have occured. Running out of fuel.
2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.
3. Replacing fuel filter.
4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.
5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.
6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.
7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.
8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.
Draining the water separators - Since diesel fuel absorbs water more than gasoline, it can get contaminated very easily. Therefoer most diesel engine vehicles have a water separator that collects water from fuel. This water needs to be drained regularly from the separator using a drain valve called a petcock. Some water separators are self-draining.
Glow plugs - Glow plugs enable a diesel engine to get heated for combustion to take place. After prolonged use, these can wear out and may need to be replaced.
Installing an engine heating kit for diesel engines are especially useful in winter when diesel engines are hard to start. This saves fuel and prolongs the life of the diesel engine while cutting down on exhaust emissions. It also eliminates the need for idling which cause wear and tear on the internal parts of a diesel engine not to mention unnecessary fuel consumption."
I collected a few more links on the topic:
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/9-top-diesel-engine-maintenance-tips
http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/diesel_maintenance.html
http://answers.practicalaction.org/our-resources/item/diesel-engine-repair-maintenance
(This website looks amazing)
and finally if you are into boating, there is a course in Brighton:
http://www.lagoon.co.uk/shore-based-courses/course/diesel-engine-maintenance-course/135
I really enjoy learning and understanding how these old internal combustion engines work.
This video presents a Ford motor that has been opened up for people to see how it works.
Enjoy!
I am trying to stop assuming that I understand how things work so I do a bit of research on everything I admit I don't know or understand! Crazy endless quest I reckon.
A friend recently had to replace the starter battery on his narrow boat (Listel engine SR2 from the 70's). I found out that he needed a 90Ah/900v starter battery only (not leisure or both use) and which should be the same as his leisure battery, meaning they must both be either sealed or flooded (this will help recharging correctly and ensure a longer life for the batteries).
"when it comes to starter batteries it the cold cranking capacity that the factor here. A cranking motor can draw 300 amps or so when cranking and in winter a cold engine can take some turning. Cold cranking capacity is not the same as the ampare hour rating. However the so common 110 AH batteries will do it. Generally speaking Deep cycles don't work so well a cranking batteries when weather is cold but nothing else can be found these will do. Most battery suppliers with give both AH capacity and cold cranking capacity in amps marked CCA."
(for the boaters and vanners) "A lot of car batteries are now the sealed type , make sure you get the same as your leisures , either sealed or flooded .
Why would it matter if it was the same type as the domestic/leisure batteries?
answer: When charging from the alternator a sealed will take 14.4 , flooded 14.8 , the alternator will either stop charging at less than 14.4 so your leisures are not getting a full charge or you run the risk of overcharging the starter if it goes up to 14.8"
I found an interesting article entitle Car battery explained with a few explanatory inages such as these:
and tips like "Temperature
matters! Heat kills car batteries and cold reduces the available
capacity."
" Cranking power: As the temperature
drops, the cranking power required by the car increases. However, as more
cranking power is used, the amount of battery power available decreases.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is critical for good cranking ability. It refers
to the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds at 0°F
until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. For example, a 12
volt battery with 600 CCAs means the battery will provide 600 amps for
30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20 volts (three cells).
The higher the CCA, the more powerful the cranking ability. If you live in a cold
climate, you should consider the CCA rating when choosing a battery. If
you live in a very hot climate, you don't need as much CCA."
"An
Amp (or Ampere's) is the stand unit that current is measured at.
If there is a 1 volt drop across a 1 ohm resister, then 1 Amp is
drawn. This formula is know as 'Ohms Law'. However an Amp is a BIG
unit, for smaller electronic devices (i.e. computers) its usually
measured as milliamps (mA) which is 100 th of an Amp."
The FAQ at the bottom of the article sums it up well.
" What should I consider
when buying a battery? SIZE: What are the
dimensions of your original battery? Will it fit into my battery tray?
POWER: What are the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) required to power your vehicle?
WARRANTY: Automotive batteries are backed by a warranty package. Chose
what is right for your vehicle's needs. When I am replacing
my battery or cleaning the terminals, why is it important to remove the
ground wire first? Before you start,
always check the type of grounding system the vehicle has. If you remove
the positive connector first in a negative ground system, you risk the
chance of creating a spark. That could happen if the metal tool you're
using to remove the positive terminal connector comes in contact with
any piece of metal on the car. If you are working near the battery when
this occurs, it might create an ignition source that could cause the battery
to explode. It's extremely important to remove the ground source first. What does CCA mean? Cold Cranking Amps
is a rating used in battery industry to define a battery's ability to
start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps
a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Fahrenheit for 30 seconds,
while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery.
The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery. How do I safely
jump start my battery? There is a particular
sequence which should be followed. This reduces the risk of short circuiting
the battery and damaging your alternator etc. The sequence is as follows.
Switch off the
dead car and ensure all other electric devices (i.e. head unit) are
switched off. Position the dead car and the good car close to each other,
but NOT touching each other (could course a short circuit when jump
starting).
Connect one end
of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the dead battery.
Connect the other
end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the good battery.
Connect one end
of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal on the good battery.
Connect the other
end of the black jump lead to the chassis or large bolt/nut/bracket
on the engine. Anywhere away from the negative terminal of the dead
battery. Do NOT connect it to the negative terminal (-) of the dead
battery (explained why latter).
Ensure that none
of the jump leads will come in contact with any rotating or moving parts
in the engine bay. Switch on the good car and let it idle for a few
minutes. This will allow the two batteries voltages to 'settle' and
the alternator to do its job.
Start the dead
car, hopefully as the batteries are now connected in parallel, there
is twice the amount of current available to turn the engine over. Once
running disconnect the jump leads in the opposite order of connection.
Why can't the jump
lead be connected to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery? When
a battery is charging a chemical reaction is present. This produces a
waste product, which is flammable gas. When you connected the last jump
lead up to the dead car, there should be a spark (generated from the good
battery). You want this spark as far away as possible from the battery.
Otherwise there is a possibility that the gas will ignite and the battery
could burst! Which means your hands could be covered in sulphuric acid! See the news snippet on the left . Unfortunately any spark or naked flame can ignite the flammable
gas. Which in this persons case has now lead him to hospital with burns
to his face and hands.
What difference
is there between a petrol car battery and a diesel one? Not much, only the
storage capacity of diesel batteries are much bigger, hence they are physically
a bit larger. Plus they have a higher CCM so they seem to last longer." source: topbuzz.co.uk
Deep Cycle Batteries
The difference between deep cycle batteries and more traditional lead
acid car batteries is that deep cycle batteries use much thicker lead
and lead dioxide plates. This diminishes the surface area on which the
chemical reaction can occur. It gives the battery the ability to
discharge over and over, but diminishes its ability to produce a lot of
power over a short time.
Here are a few more links if you want to learn further. I usually need to read 10 times the same thing to get it in(!!)
I keep learning about how engines works because I'm determined to educate myself about the topic.
This is a good site that explains lots about engine components.
There are many more good well illustrated articles but this one is about the intake manifold.
The clearest explanation of how an engine works in my opinion
from a lawn mower company...
I'm no engineer. Although I could understand separate functions, how engines work is still something I couldn't put together in my head.
Up until I read this article.
Hopefully that'll be helpful for the van and further if I get into boat as I'm thinking of.
The biggest difference between small engines and other types of
engines is their small capacity and simplicity of design. Small engines
generate very modest amounts of power - generally no more than 25 HP -
compared to a typical family car (up to 200 HP). And a small engine's
size makes it easier to maintain and repair.
Since small engines are designed for simple tasks like cutting grass
and turning soil, their designs are fairly uncomplicated. Unlike cars
and other vehicles that frequently accelerate, slow down or idle for
long periods, small engines either run at constant speed or change speed
slightly to handle modes changes in the "load," such as when a
lawnmower hits a patch of thick grass.
Also, unlike car engines, small engines don't have to fit under a
hood or make room for countless computers and other devices. This makes
small engine parts easier to install, adjust and remove. You can reach
most small engine parts with a few turns of a wrench.
Essentials Of The Four-Stroke Engine
Here, in its simplest form, is how a four-stroke engine works:
When you pull the rope, known as a rewind cord, or use your electric
starter, precise amounts of fuel and filtered air mix in the carburetor.
The mixture rushes into the engine to be compressed, ignited and burned
in a controlled process known as internal combustion. Hot gases are
produced. As the gases expand, they push a smooth, well-lubricated
cylindrical component, known as the piston. The piston, in turn, drives
the crankshaft, the arm that spins a blade or performs other work.
Valves let air and fuel into the combustion chamber above the piston and
allow spent gases to exit through the muffler.
The whole process involves four piston strokes and is designed to
become self-sustaining from the time the engine starts until the moment
it stops. Timed electrical surges cause the spark plug to fire
repeatedly inside the combustion chamber, igniting each fresh supply of
air and fuel and producing gases that continually drive the piston and
crankshaft.
All the while, oil from the crankcase and air circulate to keep
engine temperatures within an acceptable range, and a governor monitors
changes in the workload and adjusts engine speed accordingly.
Five Basic Systems
There are five systems at work in every small engine: Fuel Supply, Compression, Ignition, Lubrication/Cooling, and Governor (speed control).
Two other common systems are also discussed in detail. Some engine
models - especially heavier-duty ones - may contain a starter motor,
which requires an electrical system to charge the battery.
Most small engines sold in the past 10-15 years include a braking
system as well. This is designed to protect you and others by stopping
the engine quickly if you let go of the controls.
In short, five systems generate the power to spin a blade, turn a
wheel or perform other work. Two others may be included for safety and
convenience. The following will familiarize you with the major parts in
these systems and the essentials of how they work.
Engine Components And Their Function
Here's how the components in your engine interact:
The rewind cord is pulled to start the combustion process. On
some models, a starter motor replaces the rewind, drawing on battery
power to start the engine.
Revolving magnets work in conjunction with the ignition armature and spark plug to produce a spark in the combustion chamber.
The carburetor draws in fuel from the fuel tank and outside air
to form a combustible vapor that is fed into the combustion chamber.
Intake and exhaust valve open and close at precisely timed
intervals to let air and fuel enter the engine and to let spent gases
exit.
The piston is pushed through the cylinder by the force of
expanding gases. The piston's motion causes the crankshaft to turn.
Momentum then carries the piston back toward the top of the cylinder.
Oil stored in the crankcase circulates through the engine to
lubricate key components like the piston and crankshaft and to provide
generalized cooling by drawing away heat from internal engine surfaces.
A flywheel brake and stop switch are included on engines for
equipment such as mower that require constant supervision. The two
components are designed to stop the engine if you release the controls.
An air vane or flyweights monitor engine RPMs so the governor can maintain the selected engine speed.
Cooling fins help reduce engine temperatures when air circulate across the hottest engine surfaces.
I might be becoming a bit obssessed with Pilot's engines...
Yes it's a XUD. The metal intake manifold makes it recognisable fromm a DW8's plastic manifold.
Their respective shape helps to differentiate them too.
And a good video by Chris Fix on the topic which I think is suitable for the LDV Pilot (need to empty through the hose as there's no flush screw!) but many other engines too.
