A procedure to remove Burman 30-370 steering box on LDV Pilot 2003 (400 serie with DW8 peugeot engine)

Pilots' pilots.

Here is my two cents procedure and suggestions to remove your steering box on your own.

This is a long post so here is the start of it and I'll finalise it when I'll get more time.

Tools

• Jack
• 3 axle stands (one to support engine)
• copper hammer
• pitman arm puller
• ratchet
• 3/4W socket [drop arm]
• 22mm socket [tie rod end]
• lump hammer
• 13mm spanner/socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm spanner
• 10mm
• hex key [vaccum pump]
• oil cap and container
• tipex corrector
• manuals (available free on LDV files)

First and foremost, immobilise your vehicle properly and don't go under until it's firmly and steadily set up on axle stands on a flat surface because since you have a van there are people who need you and they won't like you anymore if you are as flat as a pancake because it dropped onto your face as you were working under it to repair it. Stay in shape, make it stable!

Lift up front of van high as to have enough room for arm movements.

Take off driver side wheel.

Take down tie rod end from drop arm

method used: Bang Bang (see pic) but on the right spot (see other pic)

other methods: fork etc will write up later

Take down drop arm

method used: Pitman arm puller (less than £10 online)

other methods: 

Heat drop arm around shaft (risk! Not so much as to melt seal inside).Hit both side of drop arm with similar lump hammers.

will write up later

Get caps and empty containers ready to stop and deal with oil spills.

Unscrew 2 pipes from box (from reservoir and from high pressure supply pipe), leave short pipe on as it’s connected to box only. Leave to empty itself.

In cabin, remove dashboard part under steering wheel (and around ignition barrel?).

In engine bay, put steering column to straight and mark placement of shaft with steering column coupling shaft to remember (I use tipex corrector) [check manual around this issue as I think it can be worked out in some other way when refitting but always good to make marks in case it helps] and remove completely pinch bolts from steering wheel shaft.

In cabin, support the steering column and remove the 2 nuts and plate that hold the column (note that here you might have to remove a plastic part that connects the shaft to the body where it goes through to the engine bay. I think I read it’s recommended to do this before removing the nuts and plate - it’s broken and missing on mine so I didn’t have to). No need to disconnect any but watch out for cables and not to reap any off.

plate/bracket supporting column above

 

broken bit on mine

steering column coupling shaft out from steering box upper shaft (above)

Pull shaft up until about 3/4 inches are left on engine bay side (or whatever is enough to get steering column coupling shaft out).

Disconnect the high pressure supply pipe from the engine crossmember (clips)

SUPPORT THE ENGINE PROPERLY (see manual and pancake story at beginning of this post)

and undo the 2 bolts and  the plate at bottom of steering box.

Remove 3 bolts holding steering box.

Remove the vacuum pump (very easy 1 bolt, 1 hex bolt)

Getting the box out.

Method I used:

Get a copper hammer (thanks Tony Norbury for this and many more tips) and hit at the bottom of box on the side facing the back of the van.

That should rotate the bottom of the box upward toward the front of the van

so you can access the 2 bolts of the box lower mounting fixing where the crossmember was connected.

At the start I did hammer the box down from the top, hitting on the place where the hole for the right hand top bolt was (when still in place) This made it rotate a bit more but not that much and it was noisy, exhausting and not so efficient so I came up with the following solution.

This is what I called the Gap of Hope. The rotation started showing some progress. and my biceps to cry.
Also the lower little white arrow show where I was hitting to rotate the box in the opposite direction.

Get a L-shaped bracket (thick metal) with a hole of similar size to bolt. The shortest the short side of the L shape is the better I reckon, and the longest the long side is best too but not crucial as it can be extended.

You should also find a short bit of metal with similar thickness to even up pressure from the side of the other bolt - so as not to bend the original plate.

Bolt this bracket and the short bit under the plate where the crossmember was.

You have made yourself a lever and you can now rotate the box indefinitely until it comes out.

Lubricant where/when possible helps. There was quite some rust around mine.

You can remove the box one out from under through where the vacuum pump was.

Think the box outside.

Done.

Amazing power of the mind.

Many thanks to all from Club LDV who have helped with ideas and suggestions all throughout.

Now for the refit...

Assume nothing but TEST everything! Parasitic draw test, relays, glow plugs, earth connections, etc

Check your earth connections first!

and assume nothing but test everything!

Preheating - glow plugs control unit and relay

(9639912580-G CARTIER) - Pricey when new but can be found second hand and tested

for a LDV Pilot van (DW8; it fits many other vehicle, check for yourself)

Once more it was the earth, the same battery earth that was causing the engine not to start.
I had readjusted it a few days before the engine went and it looked fine.
For this reason I looked at everything else, read all the manuals, cleaned all possible connections (even bought a replacement Preheat control unit), performed a parasitic draw test for all fuses and relays; checked all fuses and relays (post with video on checking relays here).

Eric the car guy explains how to perform

a parasitic draw test

in the above video.

This is what you need to do if your brand new battery keeps going flat overnight.

If need be one has to check the various relays of the vehicle.

This video is probably the best and most complete one on the topic on the tube.

Thanks to Ratchets and wrenches.

and in the end as I was doing the test, seeing that I had no draw and being clueless.

I thought I've been cleaning up everything electric around so let's just undo this battery negative earth connection, clean it and grease it up.

Next thing the van start (with a tongue in cheek look).

Made me feel like an idiot but as long as it started I'm happy and delighted I learned so much about my van's and 12V systems in general!

[EDIT:] It never was the battery neg earth connection. Today (2 months later) after the van having sat under torrential rains for a couple of days, it refused to start and displayed the same symptoms: Glowplug get on but clicliclic noise and no start + funny warning lights going on by itself for a while.

I am 99.8% sure it is due to a faulty relay (probably the warning lights one).

I am gonna do a thorough check of all relays as in the video above and replace the bugger one.

For the time being I'll have to try to park on the other side of the vehicle because I believe when the road is bent and the van lean on the left, the rain water drips in and humidity accumulates, causing the relay to malfunction.

The van starts fine after a while (me doing long parasitic test, cleaning the relays and looking for the fault every possible where), hence that relay must be drying and when it's dry, everything is fine.

Cure to the frustration of rounded bolts and nuts!

Yet another life-changing tip from Scotty Kilmer (his website) in one of his videos.
Personally I never had many good tools to work on mechanic "projects" and when I started to get a handful of decent ones I still couldn't get my head around this frustrating situation of a rounded nut or bolt, whether on bicycles, cars, vans or whatever that's held with nuts & bolts.
This is like an epiphany to me! That tool's inventor I want to hug!
Check out the video below to know the full story.

Thanks a bunch for that one Scotty Kilmer. Here is Scotty's video channel. Some people comment that they can't take the way he speaks. I only see a lot of life, positivity and no nonsense in his tone (which I like it if you asked me but you didn't) and it also comes from the video editing that is fast and furious. He also does Live talk as mechanic online.
As a film-making enthusiast I ought to ask him who is the videographer behind the youtube content and how they work together on the script!

New LDV files website and forum online

Here the link to the new LDV Files website that also have a forum announced by Michael Mc Donald who runs the LDV Files group of fb. The new website front page reads as follows:

"Welcome to Ldv Files - We have workshop manuals for the Pilot / Convoy & Maxus as well as a forum where you can discuss , the sherpa , 200 , 300 , 350 & 400 , Pilot and Convoy & Maxus.

As well as all this you can browse videos , your vans , self builds , selling page and a lot more ( even camping recipes ) 

Click here to go to the FORUM"

Long live to this new forum.

The LDV Sherpa II forum remains available.

Learn the basics of diesel engine maintenance

I found this very clear article which lists and explains what minimum basic maintenance should be done on a diesel engine, read below or read the full article here on fourthgen.net.

"Changing the lubricating oil - This is usually necessary on a more frequent basis than gasoline engines - generally every 3000 miles

Changing the air filter - Since diesel engines experience high intake pressures, the air filtering system is important to not only filter media but also to cool the air.

Changing the oil filter - while a gasoline engine may give less mileage or performance with a dirty fuel filter, this can be more serious in the case of a diesel engine where dirty fuel can damage a diesel engine's fuel injection system. The filter should meet or exceed the standards suggested by manufacturer so that sulphur and carbon residue are removed. Synthetic oil is also recommended.

Early warning system - The early warning system that warns of engine overheating should be checked for functionality. A gasoline engine if overheated can be shut off, cooled down and restarted. However if a diesel engine gets overheated, it will be damaged.

Changing the fuel filter - It is important the change the fuel filter as recommended by the manufacturer in order to prevent condensation from building up and getting into the fuel injectors. The fuel tank should also be kept full to avoid moisture forming.

Gaskets should be checked and replaced on all critical areas especially in the combustion mounting areas and coolant hoses.

Bleeding the fuel system - While some diesel engines have self bleeding systems, others which do not, need to have the fuel system bled to get a steady air free flow of fuel. This becomes necessary after any of the following situations have occured. Running out of fuel.

2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.

3. Replacing fuel filter.

4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.

5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.

6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.

7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.

8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.

Draining the water separators - Since diesel fuel absorbs water more than gasoline, it can get contaminated very easily. Therefoer most diesel engine vehicles have a water separator that collects water from fuel. This water needs to be drained regularly from the separator using a drain valve called a petcock. Some water separators are self-draining.

Glow plugs - Glow plugs enable a diesel engine to get heated for combustion to take place. After prolonged use, these can wear out and may need to be replaced.

Installing an engine heating kit for diesel engines are especially useful in winter when diesel engines are hard to start. This saves fuel and prolongs the life of the diesel engine while cutting down on exhaust emissions. It also eliminates the need for idling which cause wear and tear on the internal parts of a diesel engine not to mention unnecessary fuel consumption."

I collected a few more links on the topic: http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/9-top-diesel-engine-maintenance-tips http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/diesel_maintenance.html http://answers.practicalaction.org/our-resources/item/diesel-engine-repair-maintenance (This website looks amazing) and finally if you are into boating, there is a course in Brighton: http://www.lagoon.co.uk/shore-based-courses/course/diesel-engine-maintenance-course/135

 

car, camper, caravan, boating electrics shop london

http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/

Eberspacher to heat your van

Eberspacher - AIRTRONIC air heaters and HYDRONIC water heaters instead of the wood burner?

How car electricals work?

In my learning serie of posts,
here is an article about how car electricals work.
Something I am yet not familiar with but will greatly benefit from learning about concerning the van for repairs and when I will attempt conversion.
It's a great guide to uinderstand how electricity works in general as well.

Commercial vans (including LDV) history peep...

Starting from the Morris J which I was told is the ancestor of the LDV vans...
An article by Keith Adams.

LDV vans facebook group

One of the few most friendly and efficient LDVers network group in UK is a click away!

where you can find loads of useful and free LDV files (manuals etc):

LDV files group

and LDV owners ((wild and/or musical) camping) meet-ups!

Spare parts from LDV vans in UK

Yet another link to a used LDV van parts dealer in UK (ebay link) that has been regularly posting up his latest bits on the facebook forum.

(Almost classic) LDV porn

Austin J4, Leyland sherpa, LDV... enjoy :) and feel free to add in the comments.

Protection

This company offers protection for LDVs (not for the Pilot but Convoy's services will probably fit) and ply lining.
Never seen that type of (specialised) trade before here, that's why I'm posting it.

LDV files

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ldvfiles/files/

from LDV files on fb

Thanks Michael!!

Tip - Easystart alternative...

"Tip, instead of buying a tin of easystart £4, a cheap tin of air spray/lacquer,antifreeze does the same

Brake cleaner works as well.
(from Club LDV)

Van Insurance

"For all you looking for insurance firms spotted these on a forum - 30 year olds with no claims bonus getting it for £260 plus so worth a try if nothing else http://www.brentacre.co.uk/ & http://www.justkampersinsurance.com/"

(from Michael on LDV files)

Pilot radiator - what fits in for replacement if dont have the original?

"Guys over on Club LDV it was asked about rads , ie did any other model fit , after looking at some forums for a convoy a vauxhall astra 1.7 or TD should fit fine - as for a pilot it was the peugeot 405 - so if anyone does try this can you let us know if they are compatible please"
(thanks Michael Mc Donald from LDV files fb group)

THE way to clean up old dirty oil (vegetable oil)

" After a decade running WVO on the same engine [now heading for 400,000 in my Pilot] I have found THE way to clean up old dirty oil. After a long time settling and only drawing off above the 'gunk line' treat yourself and buy a centrifuge, NOT a small spinner, they're useless. Get a decent machine such as one from usfiltermaxx, not cheap but wow are they fast and efficient. You can easily clean 50 litres in an hour and the oil comes out like lager. If you'e not using twin tanks thoroughly mix with diesel before you spin it, I use a commercial stick blender. Although I always carry a spare filter I've not changed mine in the year I've had the machine and no tell-tale signs that I need so to do as yet."

Thanks to Beryl
on http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com
(http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com/post307.html#p307)

LDV vans Promo video

Difference between SWB and LWB vehicles

"The SWB and LBW is the distance measured from axle to axle. Each maker will have different measurements and size and weight. So the terms are just a guide to the model."

"The wheelbase is the measurement from the centre point of the front wheels to the centre point of the rear wheels. Though we have gone metric this length is often still quoted in inches. The longer the wheelbase the greater the cubic capacity of the load area. However, obviously, the longer the van the more unwieldy in narrow streets and when parking and there is not much point buying an LWB unless you need it's extra capacity. 

An LWB van will usually have a higher load rating than a SWB one. But again, if all you carry are a few cans of paint and some step ladders then the extra load facility is academic. 

There should not be much difference - if any - regarding the insurance costs."

" If you plan to carry heavy small things, then the SWB will be better, but if you plan to carry furniture, the LWB will suit your needs better. You will also find low, medium and high roof variants of these."

Read more >>