Thursday, July 2, 2015

LDV Pilot and Convoy vans - Basic advice on replacing the kin pins

How and what tools do you need to replace the king pins on a Pilot or a Convoy LDV van?
In 2 posts, quoting from auto banter:
external usenet poster
Posts: 70
Default LDV pilot - convoy

Whats the going rate for a king pin change - mine needs doing and I
swore blind never to do another myself ;-)

Also, is front axle same off convoy, can get a complete one with new
pins for £100.. seems like a much nicer option!

  #4 (permalink)  
Old October 12th 09, 10:32 PM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance
external usenet poster
Posts: 41
Default LDV pilot - convoy

Pins are only £29.. which makes up for the fact you either take the axle
off and take it somewhere with a press, or spend three days with a
sledge hammer beating the fcuk out of it...
(3 days? Some say a week)

  #5 (permalink)  
Old October 14th 09, 11:53 AM posted to uk.rec.cars.maintenance
external usenet poster
Posts: 1,691
Default LDV pilot - convoy

a big air hammer takes them out in seconds. 
(Don't forget to grease them well)

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

LDV vans forum - Alive and quicking!

About 3 years ago when I got my Pilot I used to look up two forums set up by LDV vans, sherpas etc owners and lovers. These were the only forums available online and were very useful.
Unfortunately soon after I joined they all disappeared. I took up the task to set them back up and archive some of the best tips and most useful conversations on the then newly set up fb LDV groups.
My archiving was slow as it takes a lot of time to search on the fb group page for posts that keep disappearing in the scrolling down system (*#@%$?!!!).
However few admins from the ex-sites took over and slowly but surely new members registered.

I was delighted today to see that it's well alive and quicking!

LDV lovers, Join up our forum!
http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com

The advantages over fb is that you can look up the infos without having to scroll down for ghost-posts (I'm gonna call them that), it's always there for you. The search option is much easier to use than fbook.

Thanks again to the admins who are taking care of the forum.

Why driving on the left? or on the right?

That is ze question.
I always wondered the reason why different countries would have a different system on the road.
Apart from the usual frog/rosbeef jokes no one ever could tell me.
Thank to the instructor in the bicycle mechanic course I undertook this month,
I now know and thanks to internet I now can tell and share.
In this article, it explains why do the British drive on the left?

in brief this is why:
"In the Middle Ages you kept to the left for the simple reason that you never knew who you'd meet on the road in those days. You wanted to make sure that a stranger passed on the right so you could go for your sword in case he proved unfriendly."

In France Napoleon's successful attack strategies and his massive ego are responsible for France and its colonies to have kept the driving on right system.

Thursday, June 25, 2015

LDV vans Sherpa Pilot Convoy - No MOT etc - Don't scrap them!

Yet another post on our dear Club LDV social network group from Matt who writes:
"Going to the scrap yard in the sky on Saturday its a shame other than the rust not much else wrong with it but cant afford to keep it on the road any more �� "

Please! Dont scrap!

Save the parts for usWe ll make them last another half century!!

And surely you'll make more than this ridiculous amount of money due to the crash of metal s worth itself due to speculative (capitalist) fuckers in power all around the world. Scrapping means sending this good steel to China so it comes back in the form of utterly useless items of miserable quality (otherwise called shite).
Come on! Make a few quids, bypass "supporting already rich fuckers" and recycle the good things for the people who take care of it, make it last and therefore make our planet and life sustainable! (uff I needed to say that).

Come join the Club LDV group and get recycling!


Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Diagnosing head gasket symptoms - Head gasket failure types

Someone I know was worried the head gasket in their car had blown.
That's usually a right reason to worry as this gasket plays a major role in the running of the engine and usually entails costly repairs.
I look for some informations as to how to understand why it happens and how it happens.
This link explains the various head gasket failure types and this one gives infos about blown head gasket symptoms.

Hope that helps!

Sunday, June 14, 2015

How a car works guide!

Here is a good guide on how a car works with 24 articles on the basics of car mechanic, body work and everything you need to know about your vehicle if you want to learn or try a little or a lot of DIY repairing!

There is also many more articles (288 in total) accessible for free from the front page of the howacarworks website.

You can see them all at a glance on this page.

Enjoy!

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Gypsy Roma Traveller Police Association

An initiative to fight against discrimination of travellers I found online:

"The GRTPA is a support network for Police Personnel who are from a GRT background. We are a National organisation but our reach is international as we aim to link in with our Police colleagues from around the world.

The GRTPA’s main aim is to unite and support all Police Officers and Staff who are from GRT background. We will do this by promoting equality and fairness and by providing a support forum where members can share and discuss the issues which affect their working life.
Intrinsically linked to our main aim is the desire to foster good relationships between the Police and GRT Communities. We aim to do this by facilitating discussion, negotiation and co–operation between UK Police Forces, GRT communities and organisations. In doing so, we will establish a platform for sharing good practice in working with GRT Communities."


Saturday, June 6, 2015

A 10-Story Former Shoe Factory Transformed into the Ultimate Urban Playground

source



"Housed in the former home of the 10-story International Shoe Company, the sprawling 600,000 square-foot City Museum in St. Louis is quite possibly the ultimate urban playground ever constructed. The museum is the brainchild of artist and sculptor Bob Cassilly who opened the space in 1997 after years of renovation and construction. Although Cassilly passed away in 2011, the museum is perpetually under construction as new features are added or improved thanks to a ragtag group of 20 artists known affectionately as the Cassilly Crew."

read more

on native americans 20th century education

I can't resist archiving some posts here that have nothing to do with LDV vans but hey there's more than this to life.
Starting with this terrifying one on
TWENTIETH-CENTURY EDUCATION FOR NATIVE AMERICANS RESIDENTIAL SCHOOLS

source

“I want to get rid of the Indian problem. I do not think as a matter of fact, that the country ought to continuously protect a class of people who are able to stand alone… Our objective is to continue until there is not a single Indian in Canada that has not been absorbed into the body politic and there is no Indian question, and no Indian Department, that is the whole object of this Bill.” Dr. Duncan Campbell Scott - 1920

read more

Sunday, May 31, 2015

Posts and comments for advices on LDV vehicles

Dear readers!

Many thanks for your praises and comments. I have to apologise for not being able to answer all your questions. I'd love to be able to keep up with them but I have neither time nor expertise for it.

I direct you once more to the excellent and ultra friendly social network groups I turn to for advice. I recommend these two for the best advice, banter and learning together:

Club LDV
and
Club LDV/Freight Rover Convoy/Sherpa/Maxus/Pilot/Cub, Van/Camper/Day van 

You take care
Enjoy the LDV beast,

Yours faithfully.

World's fastest Pat the Postie LDV van

Get out of me fookin way I gotta a letta to deliva!!

Saturday, May 2, 2015

LDV Pilot van love :)

This is what I found cruising randomly on the web.
A sweet few nicely done webpages about a LDV Pilot from 2002 with good images
where the van seems to be the star of a movie!

I had to feature it here.
Thank you Timothy Birt.

It also has a wealth of information about sustainable energy (campervanners!boaters!) and much more.




(All credits for images and website to Timothy Birt)

Monday, March 2, 2015

A guide to changing your diesel vehicle's engine oil

This very well illustrated article will show you how to replace the oil in your diesel engine.
Read it on the brilliant enginebasics.com website
along with this article explaining the importance of clean oil in your engine.

Learn the basics of diesel engine maintenance

I found this very clear article which lists and explains what minimum basic maintenance should be done on a diesel engine, read below or read the full article here on fourthgen.net. \





  • "Changing the lubricating oil - This is usually necessary on a more frequent basis than gasoline engines - generally every 3000 miles
  • Changing the air filter - Since diesel engines experience high intake pressures, the air filtering system is important to not only filter media but also to cool the air.
  • Changing the oil filter - while a gasoline engine may give less mileage or performance with a dirty fuel filter, this can be more serious in the case of a diesel engine where dirty fuel can damage a diesel engine's fuel injection system. The filter should meet or exceed the standards suggested by manufacturer so that sulphur and carbon residue are removed. Synthetic oil is also recommended.
  • Early warning system - The early warning system that warns of engine overheating should be checked for functionality. A gasoline engine if overheated can be shut off, cooled down and restarted. However if a diesel engine gets overheated, it will be damaged.
  • Changing the fuel filter - It is important the change the fuel filter as recommended by the manufacturer in order to prevent condensation from building up and getting into the fuel injectors. The fuel tank should also be kept full to avoid moisture forming.
  • Gaskets should be checked and replaced on all critical areas especially in the combustion mounting areas and coolant hoses.
  • Bleeding the fuel system - While some diesel engines have self bleeding systems, others which do not, need to have the fuel system bled to get a steady air free flow of fuel. This becomes necessary after any of the following situations have occured
    1. Running out of fuel.
    2. If fuel shut off valve is left closed and engine runs out of fuel.
    3. Replacing fuel filter.
    4. Fuel injector nozzle or injector pump repair.
    5. After repairing or replacing any fuel line.
    6. Before putting engine back into service in the spring, if fuel system has been drained.
    7. Replacement of electric or mechanical fuel pump.
    8. Any time air is permitted to enter the fuel system.
  • Draining the water separators - Since diesel fuel absorbs water more than gasoline, it can get contaminated very easily. Therefoer most diesel engine vehicles have a water separator that collects water from fuel. This water needs to be drained regularly from the separator using a drain valve called a petcock. Some water separators are self-draining.
  • Glow plugs - Glow plugs enable a diesel engine to get heated for combustion to take place. After prolonged use, these can wear out and may need to be replaced.
  • Installing an engine heating kit for diesel engines are especially useful in winter when diesel engines are hard to start. This saves fuel and prolongs the life of the diesel engine while cutting down on exhaust emissions. It also eliminates the need for idling which cause wear and tear on the internal parts of a diesel engine not to mention unnecessary fuel consumption."


  • I collected a few more links on the topic:
    http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/9-top-diesel-engine-maintenance-tips
    http://www.automotivetroubleshootingsecrets.com/diesel_maintenance.html
    http://answers.practicalaction.org/our-resources/item/diesel-engine-repair-maintenance (This website looks amazing)
    and finally if you are into boating, there is a course in Brighton:
    http://www.lagoon.co.uk/shore-based-courses/course/diesel-engine-maintenance-course/135

    Friday, February 20, 2015

    How the biggest diesel marine engine in the world works!

    Another post about how engines work, diesel engines with a short documentary about the most powerful diesel marine engine in the world.

     

     Skip forward to about 2:05 to see the piston in action of this 2000 tonnes marine engine
    and understand how internal combustion engines function.

    How an internal combustion engine works - Old Ford engine example

    I really enjoy learning and understanding how these old internal combustion engines work. This video presents a Ford motor that has been opened up for people to see how it works. Enjoy!

    Friday, January 23, 2015

    Replacing the accelerator cable tutorial

    The mystery of the slowest van is finally solved.
    The cable of my LDV Pilot van snapped off the other night while I was driving.
    I rang Channels Commercials but they didn't have it in stock and offered to order it for early next week.
    I needed the van operational for Saturday morning so it wasn't good enough. I rang KSL garage services who didn't have it either but directed to LDV Parts. They had it and could deliver on friday morning.

    When I bought the van 2 years ago I was told its only downside was that it had been fitted with a speed-limiter and sometimes would run slow. It didn't do it when I test drove it.
    Then it was getting slower and slower. Driving was harder and harder too as I had to press the gas pedal hard t get the van to pull its own weight only. I tried changing the oil filter but nothing much happened. It was getting slower. I heard about some of these vans had been fited with long rear axles to protect the gearbox (exRM van) which requires double work from the engine.
    When I changed the cable today I tried it out and to my surprise the van is very responsive and fast... as should be I guess... It's like having a new van! No more gym work for my right leg.

    Here is a tutorial on how to replace the accelerator cable. It's an easy enough task.
    First I unscrewed this part to let the cable loose with spanner 9 or 10 (metric system. Correct me if I'm wrong on this.)


    It's a bit tricky to take off and fit back the cable end from the (beige) plastic part
    (which is not supplied with the new cable = breaking it is not an option).
    What worked for me is to hold back the spring and push down the end. This released the cable.  










    I removed the accordeon pipe (2 philips head screws)
    to access the nuts seen on the next blurry pics.


    It also has a rubber ring (LDV S&M).


    Inside the cabin,
    I unmounted the nuts holding the gas pedal to release the cable from it.


    Never mind the spring. Just replace it as is when mounting back.


    Have a good look at how the cable end fits in the slots on top of the head of the pedal.
    The cable end looks like a bicycle one.


    Can't recall the nuts size but i reckon was between12 and 15.
    I used these (cheapest I could get) tools but it'd be better to use shorter deep sockets.


    This is the old cable's rubber housing. It was well bent and snapped.


    Let's admire both beautiful ends of the rubber housing.



    Here is where the cable clips in and goes from boot to cabin.
    I filed the hole in the body to make it go through the body.
    Perhaps a better idea is to slighlty file the cable end as it seems it had been done on the old cable
    but I chose no to take the risk to overdo it and to not be able to fit it correclty afterward.


    Hope that helps.
    If you have any question please post it in the comment.
    I can't always reply as I'm a busy bee but take a look at this page for suggestions to get support from the international online LDV community.

    Enjoy your LDV Pilot van ride!

    Tuesday, October 21, 2014

    Body and Chassis - Automobile History

    source: http://www.motorera.com/history/hist09.htm

    I am spending some time under the van because I'm installing a towbar.
    It got me thinking of the rarely seen part of cars and vans that's holing it together, the chassis. There I found an educative article on the subject.

    "Unlike the first engine and chassis builders, who had no precedents to follow, the first auto body engineers represented an old established craft. It mattered little to them whether vehicles were to be propelled by a gasoline engine, electric power, or steam. Their task was the same as in the days of chariots: to construct a conveyance that would carry people.
    The body builders contended that if carriages were good enough for horses, they were good enough for engines. They were even given carriage names -- phaeton, brougham, tonneau, landaulet, and wagonette.
    Don't get the idea that early body engineers were a stodgy conservative bunch. When it came to trying new structural concepts and materials, they were as radical as the engine and chassis guys -- so much so, in fact, that practically every body structural technique in use today had been tried by 1920, even gluing bodies together. (...)"
    read more

    Saturday, October 11, 2014

    How does a car battery works?

    I am trying to stop assuming that I understand how things work so I do a bit of research on everything I admit I don't know or understand! Crazy endless quest I reckon.
    A friend recently had to replace the starter battery on his narrow boat (Listel engine SR2 from the 70's). I found out that he needed a 90Ah/900v starter battery only (not leisure or both use) and which should be the same as his leisure battery, meaning they must both be either sealed or flooded (this will help recharging correctly and ensure a longer life for the batteries).

    "when it comes to starter batteries it the cold cranking capacity that the factor here. A cranking motor can draw 300 amps or so when cranking and in winter a cold engine can take some turning. Cold cranking capacity is not the same as the ampare hour rating. However the so common 110 AH batteries will do it. Generally speaking Deep cycles don't work so well a cranking batteries when weather is cold but nothing else can be found these will do. Most battery suppliers with give both AH capacity and cold cranking capacity in amps marked CCA."

    (for the boaters and vanners)
    "A lot of car batteries are now the sealed type , make sure you get the same as your leisures , either sealed or flooded .

    Why would it matter if it was the same type as the domestic/leisure batteries?

    answer:  When charging from the alternator a sealed will take 14.4 , flooded 14.8 , the alternator will either stop charging at less than 14.4 so your leisures are not getting a full charge or you run the risk of overcharging the starter if it goes up to 14.8"


    I found an interesting article entitle Car battery explained with a few explanatory inages such as these:


    and tips like "Temperature matters! Heat kills car batteries and cold reduces the available capacity."

    "
    Cranking power:
    As the temperature drops, the cranking power required by the car increases. However, as more cranking power is used, the amount of battery power available decreases. Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is critical for good cranking ability. It refers to the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds at 0°F until the battery voltage drops to unusable levels. For example, a 12 volt battery with 600 CCAs means the battery will provide 600 amps for 30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20 volts (three cells). The higher the CCA, the more powerful the cranking ability.
    If you live in a cold climate, you should consider the CCA rating when choosing a battery. If you live in a very hot climate, you don't need as much CCA."

    "An Amp (or Ampere's) is the stand unit that current is measured at. If there is a 1 volt drop across a 1 ohm resister, then 1 Amp is drawn. This formula is know as 'Ohms Law'. However an Amp is a BIG unit, for smaller electronic devices (i.e. computers) its usually measured as milliamps (mA) which is 100 th of an Amp."


    The FAQ at the bottom of the article sums it up well.
    "
    What should I consider when buying a battery?
    SIZE: What are the dimensions of your original battery? Will it fit into my battery tray?
    POWER: What are the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) required to power your vehicle?
    WARRANTY: Automotive batteries are backed by a warranty package. Chose what is right for your vehicle's needs.

    When I am replacing my battery or cleaning the terminals, why is it important to remove the ground wire first?
    Before you start, always check the type of grounding system the vehicle has. If you remove the positive connector first in a negative ground system, you risk the chance of creating a spark. That could happen if the metal tool you're using to remove the positive terminal connector comes in contact with any piece of metal on the car. If you are working near the battery when this occurs, it might create an ignition source that could cause the battery to explode. It's extremely important to remove the ground source first.
    What does CCA mean?
    Cold Cranking Amps is a rating used in battery industry to define a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Fahrenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.
    How do I safely jump start my battery?
    There is a particular sequence which should be followed. This reduces the risk of short circuiting the battery and damaging your alternator etc. The sequence is as follows.

    • Switch off the dead car and ensure all other electric devices (i.e. head unit) are switched off. Position the dead car and the good car close to each other, but NOT touching each other (could course a short circuit when jump starting).
    • Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the dead battery.
    • Connect the other end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal on the good battery.
    • Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal on the good battery.
    • Connect the other end of the black jump lead to the chassis or large bolt/nut/bracket on the engine. Anywhere away from the negative terminal of the dead battery. Do NOT connect it to the negative terminal (-) of the dead battery (explained why latter).
    • Ensure that none of the jump leads will come in contact with any rotating or moving parts in the engine bay. Switch on the good car and let it idle for a few minutes. This will allow the two batteries voltages to 'settle' and the alternator to do its job.
    • Start the dead car, hopefully as the batteries are now connected in parallel, there is twice the amount of current available to turn the engine over. Once running disconnect the jump leads in the opposite order of connection.
    Why can't the jump lead be connected to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery?
    When a battery is charging a chemical reaction is present. This produces a waste product, which is flammable gas. When you connected the last jump lead up to the dead car, there should be a spark (generated from the good battery). You want this spark as far away as possible from the battery. Otherwise there is a possibility that the gas will ignite and the battery could burst! Which means your hands could be covered in sulphuric acid!
    See the news snippet on the left . Unfortunately any spark or naked flame can ignite the flammable gas. Which in this persons case has now lead him to hospital with burns to his face and hands.

    What difference is there between a petrol car battery and a diesel one?
    Not much, only the storage capacity of diesel batteries are much bigger, hence they are physically a bit larger. Plus they have a higher CCM so they seem to last longer."
    source: topbuzz.co.uk

    Deep Cycle Batteries

    The difference between deep cycle batteries and more traditional lead acid car batteries is that deep cycle batteries use much thicker lead and lead dioxide plates. This diminishes the surface area on which the chemical reaction can occur. It gives the battery the ability to discharge over and over, but diminishes its ability to produce a lot of power over a short time.

    Here are a few more links if you want to learn further. I usually need to read 10 times the same thing to get it in(!!)

    One to understand how Volts, watts & amps work for batteries.
    One about the different types of batteries, starting batteries, deep cycle batteries.
    And a quick video from engineering explained (youtube channel) for the lazy reader or those for whom images and sound work better - but i warn you it's a bit far fetched... hopefullyi find something more straight forward soon...
    If you find one post it in a comment please!
    And a good article from my friend on leisure batteries for caravaning, boating, marine purpose more specially (approved and recommended by ilve-on boaters I'm in touch with!).
    Lastly an article to correlate the previous one on leisure batteries structures and batteries systems in general.