Friday, September 12, 2014

Commercial vans (including LDV) history peep...

Starting from the Morris J which I was told is the ancestor of the LDV vans...
An article by Keith Adams.

http://www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/commercials/commercials-purpose-built-vanspick-ups/

LDV vans facebook group

One of the few most friendly and efficient LDVers network group in UK is a click away!

where you can find loads of useful and free LDV files (manuals etc):
and LDV owners ((wild and/or musical) camping) meet-ups!

Spare parts from LDV vans in UK

Yet another link to a used LDV van parts dealer in UK (ebay link) that has been regularly posting up his latest bits on the facebook forum.

(Almost classic) LDV porn

Austin J4, Leyland sherpa, LDV... enjoy :) and feel free to add in the comments.

Protection

This company offers protection for LDVs (not for the Pilot but Convoy's services will probably fit) and ply lining.
Never seen that type of (specialised) trade before here, that's why I'm posting it.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Conversion and off-grid life

Article about Mike Hudson's van life
and his vandogtraveller website.

Loving the conversion work.

LDV files

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ldvfiles/files/

from LDV files on fb

Thanks Michael!!

How to get free parking and more

from http://vandogtraveller.com/get-free-parking/

(Thanks to Mike Hudson!)

Tip - Easystart alternative...

"Tip, instead of buying a tin of easystart £4, a cheap tin of air spray/lacquer,antifreeze does the same

Brake cleaner works as well.
(from Club LDV)

Van Insurance

"For all you looking for insurance firms spotted these on a forum - 30 year olds with no claims bonus getting it for £260 plus so worth a try if nothing else http://www.brentacre.co.uk/ & http://www.justkampersinsurance.com/"

(from Michael on LDV files)

Pilot radiator - what fits in for replacement if dont have the original?

"Guys over on Club LDV it was asked about rads , ie did any other model fit , after looking at some forums for a convoy a vauxhall astra 1.7 or TD should fit fine - as for a pilot it was the peugeot 405 - so if anyone does try this can you let us know if they are compatible please"
(thanks Michael Mc Donald from LDV files fb group)

THE way to clean up old dirty oil (vegetable oil)

" After a decade running WVO on the same engine [now heading for 400,000 in my Pilot] I have found THE way to clean up old dirty oil. After a long time settling and only drawing off above the 'gunk line' treat yourself and buy a centrifuge, NOT a small spinner, they're useless. Get a decent machine such as one from usfiltermaxx, not cheap but wow are they fast and efficient. You can easily clean 50 litres in an hour and the oil comes out like lager. If you'e not using twin tanks thoroughly mix with diesel before you spin it, I use a commercial stick blender. Although I always carry a spare filter I've not changed mine in the year I've had the machine and no tell-tale signs that I need so to do as yet."

Thanks to Beryl
on http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com
(http://ldvsherpauk.prophpbb.com/post307.html#p307)

Almost any Diesel engine can be run on SVO

Almost any Diesel engine can be run on SVO (Straight Vegetable oil). You will need to know a few things however before you pop down to the supermarket and fill up on rape seed oil.
The type of injectors you have, the pump, the money you have to spend and the time of year will all play a role in the type of conversion you need. You are going to be faced with a few decisions and there are a few things you need to know.
1 Running on cooking oil fresh or not isn't free. You need to contact Customs and Excise and get yourself form EX103 but only if you use more than 2500L a year. You need do nothing unless you use more than 2500L in a year. With this you can register as a fuels producer. Each month you will be sent a form to declare how much oil you have used. You return this and payment to HMC&E and your all legal. You need do nothing but keep a record of your use if you use less than 2500L in a year.
2 Make BioDiesel or just use straight oil? Whichever you decide there is an abundance of information free on your favourite search engine. 'Search for Running on cooking oil' 'SVO' 'BioDiesel. Read everything you can. I know there is so much of it and most is conflicting. If you decided to go BioDiesel then read no further. Once you make your diesel fill up and go but remember Bio Diesel is more acidic than diesel but you will know this if you have made some. You may need to heat this in winter to allow good filter flow.
3 Ah you’re like me! I read the Bio blurb and decided I’m not a chemist and it all looks a little complicated. Ok decision number 2 SVO, WVO a mix perhaps. OK SVO straight fresh from the shop oils at 56-90p a litre. If you chose this then you are interested in the carbon neutrality and sustainability of running on veg oil. WVO mucky old used veg oil. Ok so you like the idea of saving the planet but want to save a few bob as well. Nothing wrong with that.
SVO Buy the cheapest oil you can rape or sunflower and that’s it.
WVO Collect your dirty oil from friends, restaurants, the local tip or wherever. Buy yourself a big bucket and a 5-micron sock filter (There on Ebay and very reasonable, No I don't sell them). Hang the sock over the bucket and pour your oil in the sock. Empty the bucket into containers. That’s it. Or perhaps a pump filter, costly but high output.
Small point but used oil is thick or solid; more so in winter. Try to collect liquid oil if you can. That is liquid at outdoor temperatures. This will be quicker to filter, easier to handle and wont set like lard in your car. The filters can be washed when they get blocked.
4 Ok so you have your 50 litres of clean or filtered oil what now? Now we face the biggest question of all, duel tank or single tank. They both have for and against. Duel tank can be expensive, hard to fit, you still need Bio or Diesel to start them but they do pose a lesser risk of wear on the injectors, pump and engine and are more suitable for Lucas pumps and HDi cars. Single tank can be cheap, harder to start in the cold and will wear the engine, pump and injectors quicker than a duel tank. How much quicker nobody yet knows. You need to decide which option you prefer.
Twin tank set-up
2 tanks. 1 with the oil (probably water heated if your smart) 1 with bio or diesel for starting and stopping on. A fuel switch, 6 port is probably the best. A switch and purge reminder (not essential). A heat exchanger (water, electric or both, discussed later) and probably a filter along with meters of hose and connectors to connect it all in with. Throw this lot at your best mate because he said you should go veg powered. Once fitted you start the car on bio or diesel. Once the coolant water is heated and the car warmed up the oil should be up to operating temp so you throw the switch and you’re a Greene unless you have already got to where you were going. At the end of the day or if you are leaving it for the day you need to get the oil out of the injectors and pump by purging with Bio or Diesel. Not very good if you are just nipping up town for a loaf of bread and a paper!
Single tank set-up
A heater. No honest that’s it. You need to heat the oil so it is thin like Diesel. You can do this electrically or with the coolant water or even both. Like I said before it does add to the wear and tear of the engine starting on cold veg but its quick and easy and very cheap.
You have 2 ways to heat your oil in the twin and single tank conversions. Electrically, plug in to the mains with a block heater, use a glow plug heater, use a 12v resistive wire heater. With water use a heat exchanger, hose on or hose in hose coil or a plate heater.
Ok there is a bit more to it. You will need to add some diesel to the oil in the single tank This is very important in the winter as the Diesel will help you to start in the morning and stop the oil from becoming a big block of lard in your tank. Water heaters take a long time to get hot so with the single tank conversion you should go electric as they heat very quickly. You can use water to supplement the electric but until you get it started there will be no warm water. You should add injector cleaner now and again. This has two benefits, first it helps remove any deposits from the burning of cold veg oil and it has a centane improver. (Centane is the opposite of Octane. High octane burns easy. High centain resists burning) in a diesel a high centain number is a good thing. Now that’s all there is to it.

A few things I just remembered. You need a good battery and alternator to go electric heating. Watch out for kits using copper, as it seems to react with WVO. If you are on a single tank start with a low mix of oil to diesel and work up. Whatever way you go make sure you change the oil and filters regularly. NO I mean it, you will regret it if you don’t.

Oh and the most important thing of ALL. When your done go to the nearest motor shop and buy 3 chrome letters about £1.50 each B I and O and add them to the badge on the boot. Now everybody will know that 'Your doing your bit for carbon reduction'

Saturday, April 5, 2014

drivin in UK - Permis de conduire B

http://www.internationalstaff.ac.uk/arrival/driving/#existinglicence

http://www.interieur.gouv.fr/A-votre-service/Mes-demarches/Transports/Obtention-du-permis-de-conduire/Permis-pour-les-voitures-categorie-B/Permis-B-validite-et-principales-caracteristiques

Véhicules pouvant être conduits avec le permis B

Véhicules pouvant être conduits avec le permis B

Le permis B permet la conduite des véhicules dont le PTAC (poids total autorisé en charge) est inférieur ou égal à 3,5 tonnes.
Aux véhicules de cette catégorie peut être attelée une remorque dont le PTAC est inférieur ou égal à 750 kg.
Peuvent aussi être conduits avec le permis B les mêmes véhicules attelés d'une remorque lorsque le poids total autorisé en charge (PTAC) de la remorque est supérieur à 750 kilogrammes, sous réserve que la somme des poids totaux autorisés en charge (PTAC) du véhicule tracteur et de la remorque de l'ensemble n'excède pas 3,5 tonnes.
 
 

Véhicules pouvant être conduit avec un permis B obtenu avant le 20 janvier 2013

Les droits acquis par les détenteurs du permis B obtenu avant le 19 janvier 2013 sont maintenus.
Il en est ainsi notamment pour le permis B délivré avant le 20 janvier 1975 qui permet de conduire un camping-car de plus de 3,5 tonnes à condition que son titulaire ait fait ajouter le code 79 sur son permis par la préfecture de son lieu de résidence.


Conduite d'une moto ou d'un tricycle à moteur par équivalence

Par équivalence, le permis B permet aussi la conduite des :
  • tricycles à moteur (véhicules de catégorie L5e),
  • motocyclettes légères (cylindrée n'excédant pas 125 cm3 et dont la puissance n'excède pas 11 KW)
à la double condition que vous soyez titulaire du permis B depuis plus de 2 ans et que vous ayez suivi une formation pratique de 7 heures.

Durée de validité du permis

Le permis B a une durée de validité de 15 ans renouvelable si vous ne commettez pas d'infraction entraînant la suspension, le retrait ou l'annulation de votre permis et si vous n'êtes pas atteint de problèmes de santé qui limitent sa validité.
 

Registering your DIY campervan when completed (link)

http://www.caravanwise.co.uk/motor/diycamper.html

Registering your DIY campervan when completed

There is a legal requirement that a UK registered vehicle is in the correct classification on the V5C log book. If you have converted a van into a motor caravan then you must return the V5C for amendment once the conversion is complete.
DIY campervan V5C
All campervans, motor caravans and motorhomes fall into the DVLA category of "Motor Caravan" but in order to qualify as a "Motor Caravan" it must have certain minimum features and it must have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Minimum Features

See the bottom of this page for the Department for Transport definition of "Motor Caravan" which is used for imports.
  1. There must be a door that provides access to the living accommodation.
  2. A bed, which is an integral part of the living quarters which has a minimum length of 1800mm or 6 feet. This can be converted at night from seats used for other purposes during the day but must be permanently fixed within the body of the vehicle.
  3. There must be a water storage tank or container on or in the vehicle.
  4. A seating and dining area, permanently attached to the vehicle. The table may be detachable but must have some permanent means of attachment to the vehicle. It's not good enough to have a loose table.
  5. There must be a permanently fixed means of storage, a cupboard, locker or wardrobe.
  6. There must be a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle powered by gas or electricity.
  7. There must be at least one window on the side of the accommodation.
If the vehicle has all of these minimum features present and permanently fixed and installed properly then you should be able to have it reclassified as a "Motor Caravan". Not only is it a legal requirement for your campervan to be in the correct classification once it is on the V5C as a "Motor Caravan" it may also (dependant on its unladen weight) benefit from higher speed limits than a van, lower MOT costs, lower road tax and cheaper insurance (in most cases) than a van.
We are frequently asked exactly what the process is for changing the classification on the V5C and since the Direct Gov web page on the subject isn't specific enough we wrote to the DVLA and asked them. Here is there reply.
"If a vehicle has been modified from its original specification it is a legal requirement that the vehicle keeper is required to return the registration certificate, V5C for amendment, no fee is required.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.

The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."

In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.
The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."
In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.
  1. Make sure that your vehicle is completely finished and that all of the required features detailed above are in place and visible. Make sure it is clean and tidy.
  2. Take a photograph from the front and rear with the registration plates clearly visible and if you have a rear opening door open it and show some of the interior.
  3. Take a photograph of each of the required features in situ (and in the usable position in the case of the bed and table).
  4. Print the photographs or have prints made and write on the back your registration number a description of what the photograph shows and the date.
What you are trying to do is to provide clear evidence that what you have made is permanently a "Motor Caravan" and that the furniture and fixings have been fitted to a satisfactory standard. You need to provide the DVLA with sufficient clear evidence in order for them to simply change the V5C and send it back to you. If you don't provide sufficient clear evidence then they will want to inspect your van before approving it for a change in classification. Remember the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".
It will do no harm to send them the completed engineers report that out insurers require with your photographs and V5C. Your covering letter should explain that you have completed the conversion of a van into a "Motor Caravan" and that you are now seeking to have your V5C amended. Make it clear in this letter that you understand the requirements and list what your vehicle has ie permanently and securely fixed:
  • seats and table
  • sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
  • cooking facilities
  • water storage
  • storage facilities
State the date that your conversion was completed, ideally this should be the date that is shown on the back of the photographs.
We have provided an example letter in rtf format here. You can use this as the basis of your own letter. Make sure that you change all of the parts between square brackets and add anything else that you think may be pertinent.
Submit this and all being well your V5C will just arrive back amended. Currently there is no charge for this amendment.

DFT Definition of Motor Caravan

The following is taken from the DFT website now in the National Archives.
"Motor caravan" means a special purposes passenger car constructed to include living accommodation which contains at least the following equipment:
  • seats and table
  • sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
  • cooking facilities
  • storage facilities
This equipment shall be rigidly fixed to the living compartment; however, the table may be designed to be easily removable.
The interpretation applied to this definition is as follows and the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Seats and a Table

  • Are required to be an integral part of the living accommodation area, and mounted independently of other items
  • The table must be capable of being mounted directly to the vehicle floor and /or side wall.
  • The table mounting arrangement must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded), although the table may be detachable
  • Permanently secured seating must be available for use at the table
  • The seats must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and/or side wall
  • The seats must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted riveted, screwed or welded)

Sleeping Accommodation

  • Must be an integral part of the living accommodation area
  • Either beds or a bed converted from seats (to form a mattress base)
  • Secured as a permanent feature, with base structures bolted, riveted, screwed or welded to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, (unless the sleeping accommodation is provided as a provision over the driver's cab compartment

Cooking Facilities

  • That are an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation and is mounted independently of other items
  • That are secured to the vehicle floor and / or side wall
  • Secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed, or welded
  • The cooking facility must consist of a minimum of a two ring cooking facility or a microwave in either case having a fuel/power source
  • If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel supply pipe must be permanently secured to the vehicle structure
  • If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel reservoir must be secured in a storage cupboard or the reservoir secured to the vehicle structure

Storage Facilities

  • Storage facilities must be provided by a cupboard or locker
  • The facility must be an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation, ie mounted independently of other items, unless incorporated below seat/sleeping accommodation or the cooking facility
  • The storage facility must be a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded)
  • The storage facility must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, unless a storage provision is provided over the driver's cab compartment

What's in your log book?

It is a legal requirement that your vehicle is correctly classified in your log book. Once you have completed a DIY campervan conversion you must immediately have the V5C log book amended.

Friday, April 4, 2014

fuel filter symptoms

http://www.buzzle.com/articles/signs-of-a-clogged-fuel-filter.html

Fuel Filter vFF 1001 for LDV Pilot and Convoy.



Thursday, April 3, 2014

Camper van conversion tips

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/insulate-my-van

http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/


insulate my van

  • 21 posts & 13 voices | Started 4 years ago by mikewsmith | Latest reply from mikewsmith
Tags:
No tags yet.
  1. Whats best, cheap and effective?
    Was thinking of laminate floor insulation for the floor and something sealed for the walls.
    Got about 50-70mm in the wall space before I replace the ply.
    Cheers
    Posted 4 years ago #
  2. seen old carpet/underlay used
    also seen bubble wrap used but it did,'t last
    Posted 4 years ago #
  3. Suggsey - Member 
    If you are doing it for warmth dont forget some under the floor- i know from experience tht this reduces the temperature in the back the most!
    Posted 4 years ago #
  4. ton - Member 
    that yellow foam stuff with silver foil backing.
    or wood with straw for insulation
    Posted 4 years ago #
  5. thats what the laminate floor stuff was for, will have a look in b&q i think
    Posted 4 years ago #
  6. ton - Member 
    did a works van in it.
    stuck it on with mastic.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  7. Depends what you consider cheap.
    Even a cheapish method of foil backed bubble wrap will start adding up when you price in the high temp glue required. Personally I don't this is very effective as its designed to have a void on both sides. People also use camping mat glued to the panels.
    Best avoid fibreglass or rockwool as it soaks up moisture, can drop to the bottom of each panel and then feed the rust bugs.
    If you can budget £420, spray insulation is the dogs danglies. Its what they spray inside shipping containers and warehouse roofs with. Mask off all metalwork and ribs you want to keep clean, sheet over the cab opening and floor, and thats the hardest bit over with. You need to be careful to keep away from lock mechanisms (bit of fibreglass round them to stop any cold spots) and keep checking that the mix stays correct otherwise the foam won't set, or won't expand. I used it on my van, the £420 kit did the walls and ceiling of a mwb hi-top Iveco, same as a LWB Transit. http://www.spray-insulation.co.uk/
    P.S. Don't even think about cans of squirty foam - it'll cost a fortune, its highly flammable, (unless you get the fire rated stuff) is open cell so absorbs moisture, and is impossibly messy to try and cover a flat surface.
    I used the Kingspan/Celotex insulation board that Ton speaks of for the floor, downside is you need to batten out the floor at 600mm centres, and will need 12mm ply minimum to go back over the top.
    Finally, I know some of the camper van converters just line the back of the ply with some sort of blanket insulation, then screw it back onto the van. Cheap and quick, avoids the problem of damp insulation sitting against the metal panels, but probably not as effective.

    Posted 4 years ago # 1
  8. I posted this on the T4 forum, but you need to subscribe to view it there so here it is for all to see. Much warmer after, but still wish I'd put more under the floor:
    After much reading, pondering and confusion I finally settled on a plan of attack and this is what happened.....
    The plan was to accept the fact that condensation was going to happen regardless and chose materials that would not absorb it. OK, so I may end up with puddles in places, but I'd rather that than fret about how much had been absorbed by what where. I drive around with the windows open pretty much all year round as it is. I read various threads on talk audio about soundproofing and worried about the weight of the flashing tape (shouldn't have) and had intended to get some acoustic felt for the floor but that never materialised. I'm still dead chuffed with the results though.
    Flashing tape two layers thick on the wheel arches, and the rest of the roll spread around:

    3mm acoustic foam underlay on top of that:


    Followed by Celotex (25mm on the top, 50mm on the bottom):


    Then the tin foil bubble wrap:


    Two layers of acoustic foam went on the floor:

    Followed by more bubble wrap:

    I also put two layers of the acoustic foam topped by a layer of the bubble wrap in the roof. I had planned to use the celotex but the 25mm stuff has just a tad too thick so I couldn't get the panels in neatly.
    Then, seeing as I blew the money I had to ply the inside on a new stereo (well I ask you, what is more important?) the old AA panels had to go back in:

    I can't believe how much difference it has made to the level of noise in the cab. We can now have a chat at 70mph at normal levels, and that's saying something for me as I suffer from tinitus and struggle isolating sounds as it is! Is it warmer? I don't know I've still got to order the bed.
    Quantities used:
    1 sheet 50mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
    1 sheet 25mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
    2 rolls (60mm x 8m) Tin foil bubble wrap (Wickes)
    2 packs (10m2) Acoustic Underlay, poo loads left (Screwfix)
    1 Roll Silver Duck Tape (Screwfix)
    1 Roll Double sided carpet tape (Screwfix)
    1 Roll (225x10m) Flashing tape (Screwfix)
    As you can see I've not done the barn doors (or the SLD) yet, I've still got parts of the AA chevrons to remove, so need to pop the door handles off. I'll probably get another roll of flashing tape for these. If I'd have known how easily it went on, and the fact its nowhere near as heavy as I though it was going to be I'd have used more in the first place.
    As soon as I get the wheels back from the powdercoater I'll post some pics of the outside.
    Posted 4 years ago # 1
  9. Damion, don't think you'll get any condensation problems in there, the foil bubblewrap is taped all round so will act as a vapour barrier, and the fact you taped the walls before adding the insulation board will help as well
    Posted 4 years ago #
  10. Thanks spooky, yeah, its been in nearly a year now and not had any problems with with condensation dripping on my head like in the old van.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  11. jeff - Member 
    Damion, I've done the same with my ex-AA T4, but I've also carpet lined the inside, and covered the existing floor in hard wearing amdro flooring.
    Much warmer/quieter, but I think I need to put flashing tape round the front wheel arches.
    PSA - Wickes online is cheapest by a long way for silver bubble wrap.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  12. I've stuck camping mats in my Landy, they we're £2 each from local 'everything cheap shop' they have a silver foil on one side. Stuck 'em on with Carpet tape, whole 110 Landy insulated for less than £20
    Posted 4 years ago #
  13. alexonabike - Member 
    Thermafleece and hemp matting.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  14. looks good Damion I think you have a clear winner and a reminder to take pics as I go!! Will post some results
    Posted 4 years ago #
  15. just found the spray foam site not sure if I'm quite up for the gimp suit
    Posted 4 years ago #
  16. damion how much weight did that add?
    Posted 4 years ago #
  17. That looks really good Damion. And the step by step pics are a good way of showing what you have done.
    I have used the rockwool method and having been in the back of my van recently, there was ice droplets on my roof so I don't know how much moisture has crept into the insulation!
    Posted 4 years ago #
  18. alexonabike - Member 
    IMO If you plan on sleeping in your van, don't use foam. As it cures (over a long time) its gives off VOC's that can make you feel like crap in the am. Just my experience. You may be able to get stuff that is not solvent based so have a good hunt around first.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  19. caterhamnut - Member 
    Excellent thread and pics guys. Going to do the same to my VW.
    Homebase doing the thermawrap foil bubblewrap stuff 2 for 1 at the moment, B&W were recently aswell.
    Is there an easy to find place to get that celotez stuff from - screwfix?
    Posted 4 years ago #
  20. grantway - Member 
    What about installing a Leisure battery and some
    electrical sockets for those remote places.
    Anyone have advice on this too
    Can you stop condensation?
    Great thread
    Posted 4 years ago #
  21. its gives off VOC's

    thats half the fun!! A quick google will give answers on batteries, Found a couple of good transit ones, kit is available from any online Caravan shop (might have to engage stealth browsing for that)

Cost of fuel in France

http://www.prix-carburants.gouv.fr/

Check out the column on the right which gives you the 2 extremes of prices in specific regions to get an idea.

("Prix les moins chers et les plus chers constatés ce jour dans ce département.")

LDV pilot/convoy fuel consumption

Approximate and average idea of LDV vans fuel consumption:

Consumption always depends on the speed, traffic density, type of road and geography (going up. down or flat), how loaded the van is or if pulling a trailer as well as whether driving against the wind - or under water.

30-33 mpg = 50km/3.8l

+++++_

6 miles to the liter

++++++

0.0784 L/KM

12.75 KM/L

7.84 L/100KM

++++++

www.vangeyn.net/mpg/?mpg=30&submit=Convert

++++++

Approximate cost of fuel (diesel/heavy oil) in London = £1.40/l (april 3rd 2014)

25km = £2.75
30km= £3.30
50km= £5.50
100km= £11.00
200km = £22.00

++++++

15mi (940.33yd) = 25km = £2.75
18mi (1128.4yd) = 30km= £3.30
31mi (120.66yd) = 50km= £5.50
62mi (241.33yd) = 100km= £11.00
124mi (482.66yd) = 200km = £22.00



MOT ckecks when buying a van/vehicle

ask the owner for the MOT, you need the reg and the mot certificate number, or the V5 document number

http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/internet/j ... equest.jsp