Saturday, April 5, 2014

drivin in UK - Permis de conduire B

Véhicules pouvant être conduits avec le permis B

Véhicules pouvant être conduits avec le permis B

Le permis B permet la conduite des véhicules dont le PTAC (poids total autorisé en charge) est inférieur ou égal à 3,5 tonnes.
Aux véhicules de cette catégorie peut être attelée une remorque dont le PTAC est inférieur ou égal à 750 kg.
Peuvent aussi être conduits avec le permis B les mêmes véhicules attelés d'une remorque lorsque le poids total autorisé en charge (PTAC) de la remorque est supérieur à 750 kilogrammes, sous réserve que la somme des poids totaux autorisés en charge (PTAC) du véhicule tracteur et de la remorque de l'ensemble n'excède pas 3,5 tonnes.

Véhicules pouvant être conduit avec un permis B obtenu avant le 20 janvier 2013

Les droits acquis par les détenteurs du permis B obtenu avant le 19 janvier 2013 sont maintenus.
Il en est ainsi notamment pour le permis B délivré avant le 20 janvier 1975 qui permet de conduire un camping-car de plus de 3,5 tonnes à condition que son titulaire ait fait ajouter le code 79 sur son permis par la préfecture de son lieu de résidence.

Conduite d'une moto ou d'un tricycle à moteur par équivalence

Par équivalence, le permis B permet aussi la conduite des :
  • tricycles à moteur (véhicules de catégorie L5e),
  • motocyclettes légères (cylindrée n'excédant pas 125 cm3 et dont la puissance n'excède pas 11 KW)
à la double condition que vous soyez titulaire du permis B depuis plus de 2 ans et que vous ayez suivi une formation pratique de 7 heures.

Durée de validité du permis

Le permis B a une durée de validité de 15 ans renouvelable si vous ne commettez pas d'infraction entraînant la suspension, le retrait ou l'annulation de votre permis et si vous n'êtes pas atteint de problèmes de santé qui limitent sa validité.

Registering your DIY campervan when completed (link)

Registering your DIY campervan when completed

There is a legal requirement that a UK registered vehicle is in the correct classification on the V5C log book. If you have converted a van into a motor caravan then you must return the V5C for amendment once the conversion is complete.
DIY campervan V5C
All campervans, motor caravans and motorhomes fall into the DVLA category of "Motor Caravan" but in order to qualify as a "Motor Caravan" it must have certain minimum features and it must have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Minimum Features

See the bottom of this page for the Department for Transport definition of "Motor Caravan" which is used for imports.
  1. There must be a door that provides access to the living accommodation.
  2. A bed, which is an integral part of the living quarters which has a minimum length of 1800mm or 6 feet. This can be converted at night from seats used for other purposes during the day but must be permanently fixed within the body of the vehicle.
  3. There must be a water storage tank or container on or in the vehicle.
  4. A seating and dining area, permanently attached to the vehicle. The table may be detachable but must have some permanent means of attachment to the vehicle. It's not good enough to have a loose table.
  5. There must be a permanently fixed means of storage, a cupboard, locker or wardrobe.
  6. There must be a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle powered by gas or electricity.
  7. There must be at least one window on the side of the accommodation.
If the vehicle has all of these minimum features present and permanently fixed and installed properly then you should be able to have it reclassified as a "Motor Caravan". Not only is it a legal requirement for your campervan to be in the correct classification once it is on the V5C as a "Motor Caravan" it may also (dependant on its unladen weight) benefit from higher speed limits than a van, lower MOT costs, lower road tax and cheaper insurance (in most cases) than a van.
We are frequently asked exactly what the process is for changing the classification on the V5C and since the Direct Gov web page on the subject isn't specific enough we wrote to the DVLA and asked them. Here is there reply.
"If a vehicle has been modified from its original specification it is a legal requirement that the vehicle keeper is required to return the registration certificate, V5C for amendment, no fee is required.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.

The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."

In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.
Before the record can be changed we would require photographic evidence of those changes and a description of the work carried out, together with receipts. An inspection of the vehicle may be required.
The photographic evidence should be of the completed conversion, both inside and out,(with the registration plates visible) in such a way that the body type is better described as a 'motorhome' e.g. the permanent features include windows, a bed, table, washing facilities, cooking facilities etc. the keeper will need to clarify the date on which the conversion took place."
In order to save you some time here are some tips on providing the photographic evidence that the DVLA require.
  1. Make sure that your vehicle is completely finished and that all of the required features detailed above are in place and visible. Make sure it is clean and tidy.
  2. Take a photograph from the front and rear with the registration plates clearly visible and if you have a rear opening door open it and show some of the interior.
  3. Take a photograph of each of the required features in situ (and in the usable position in the case of the bed and table).
  4. Print the photographs or have prints made and write on the back your registration number a description of what the photograph shows and the date.
What you are trying to do is to provide clear evidence that what you have made is permanently a "Motor Caravan" and that the furniture and fixings have been fitted to a satisfactory standard. You need to provide the DVLA with sufficient clear evidence in order for them to simply change the V5C and send it back to you. If you don't provide sufficient clear evidence then they will want to inspect your van before approving it for a change in classification. Remember the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".
It will do no harm to send them the completed engineers report that out insurers require with your photographs and V5C. Your covering letter should explain that you have completed the conversion of a van into a "Motor Caravan" and that you are now seeking to have your V5C amended. Make it clear in this letter that you understand the requirements and list what your vehicle has ie permanently and securely fixed:
  • seats and table
  • sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
  • cooking facilities
  • water storage
  • storage facilities
State the date that your conversion was completed, ideally this should be the date that is shown on the back of the photographs.
We have provided an example letter in rtf format here. You can use this as the basis of your own letter. Make sure that you change all of the parts between square brackets and add anything else that you think may be pertinent.
Submit this and all being well your V5C will just arrive back amended. Currently there is no charge for this amendment.

DFT Definition of Motor Caravan

The following is taken from the DFT website now in the National Archives.
"Motor caravan" means a special purposes passenger car constructed to include living accommodation which contains at least the following equipment:
  • seats and table
  • sleeping accommodation which may be converted from the seats
  • cooking facilities
  • storage facilities
This equipment shall be rigidly fixed to the living compartment; however, the table may be designed to be easily removable.
The interpretation applied to this definition is as follows and the new interpretation of the rules means that as well as having the minimum requirements it must also have the external appearance of a "Motor Caravan".

Seats and a Table

  • Are required to be an integral part of the living accommodation area, and mounted independently of other items
  • The table must be capable of being mounted directly to the vehicle floor and /or side wall.
  • The table mounting arrangement must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded), although the table may be detachable
  • Permanently secured seating must be available for use at the table
  • The seats must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and/or side wall
  • The seats must be secured as a permanent feature, (bolted riveted, screwed or welded)

Sleeping Accommodation

  • Must be an integral part of the living accommodation area
  • Either beds or a bed converted from seats (to form a mattress base)
  • Secured as a permanent feature, with base structures bolted, riveted, screwed or welded to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, (unless the sleeping accommodation is provided as a provision over the driver's cab compartment

Cooking Facilities

  • That are an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation and is mounted independently of other items
  • That are secured to the vehicle floor and / or side wall
  • Secured as a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed, or welded
  • The cooking facility must consist of a minimum of a two ring cooking facility or a microwave in either case having a fuel/power source
  • If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel supply pipe must be permanently secured to the vehicle structure
  • If the cooking facility is fuelled by gas having a remote fuel supply, the fuel reservoir must be secured in a storage cupboard or the reservoir secured to the vehicle structure

Storage Facilities

  • Storage facilities must be provided by a cupboard or locker
  • The facility must be an integral part of the vehicle living accommodation, ie mounted independently of other items, unless incorporated below seat/sleeping accommodation or the cooking facility
  • The storage facility must be a permanent feature, (bolted, riveted, screwed or welded)
  • The storage facility must be secured directly to the vehicle floor and / or side wall, unless a storage provision is provided over the driver's cab compartment

What's in your log book?

It is a legal requirement that your vehicle is correctly classified in your log book. Once you have completed a DIY campervan conversion you must immediately have the V5C log book amended.

Friday, April 4, 2014

fuel filter symptoms

Fuel Filter vFF 1001 for LDV Pilot and Convoy.

Thursday, April 3, 2014

Camper van conversion tips

insulate my van

  • 21 posts & 13 voices | Started 4 years ago by mikewsmith | Latest reply from mikewsmith
No tags yet.
  1. Whats best, cheap and effective?
    Was thinking of laminate floor insulation for the floor and something sealed for the walls.
    Got about 50-70mm in the wall space before I replace the ply.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  2. seen old carpet/underlay used
    also seen bubble wrap used but it did,'t last
    Posted 4 years ago #
  3. Suggsey - Member 
    If you are doing it for warmth dont forget some under the floor- i know from experience tht this reduces the temperature in the back the most!
    Posted 4 years ago #
  4. ton - Member 
    that yellow foam stuff with silver foil backing.
    or wood with straw for insulation
    Posted 4 years ago #
  5. thats what the laminate floor stuff was for, will have a look in b&q i think
    Posted 4 years ago #
  6. ton - Member 
    did a works van in it.
    stuck it on with mastic.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  7. Depends what you consider cheap.
    Even a cheapish method of foil backed bubble wrap will start adding up when you price in the high temp glue required. Personally I don't this is very effective as its designed to have a void on both sides. People also use camping mat glued to the panels.
    Best avoid fibreglass or rockwool as it soaks up moisture, can drop to the bottom of each panel and then feed the rust bugs.
    If you can budget £420, spray insulation is the dogs danglies. Its what they spray inside shipping containers and warehouse roofs with. Mask off all metalwork and ribs you want to keep clean, sheet over the cab opening and floor, and thats the hardest bit over with. You need to be careful to keep away from lock mechanisms (bit of fibreglass round them to stop any cold spots) and keep checking that the mix stays correct otherwise the foam won't set, or won't expand. I used it on my van, the £420 kit did the walls and ceiling of a mwb hi-top Iveco, same as a LWB Transit.
    P.S. Don't even think about cans of squirty foam - it'll cost a fortune, its highly flammable, (unless you get the fire rated stuff) is open cell so absorbs moisture, and is impossibly messy to try and cover a flat surface.
    I used the Kingspan/Celotex insulation board that Ton speaks of for the floor, downside is you need to batten out the floor at 600mm centres, and will need 12mm ply minimum to go back over the top.
    Finally, I know some of the camper van converters just line the back of the ply with some sort of blanket insulation, then screw it back onto the van. Cheap and quick, avoids the problem of damp insulation sitting against the metal panels, but probably not as effective.

    Posted 4 years ago # 1
  8. I posted this on the T4 forum, but you need to subscribe to view it there so here it is for all to see. Much warmer after, but still wish I'd put more under the floor:
    After much reading, pondering and confusion I finally settled on a plan of attack and this is what happened.....
    The plan was to accept the fact that condensation was going to happen regardless and chose materials that would not absorb it. OK, so I may end up with puddles in places, but I'd rather that than fret about how much had been absorbed by what where. I drive around with the windows open pretty much all year round as it is. I read various threads on talk audio about soundproofing and worried about the weight of the flashing tape (shouldn't have) and had intended to get some acoustic felt for the floor but that never materialised. I'm still dead chuffed with the results though.
    Flashing tape two layers thick on the wheel arches, and the rest of the roll spread around:

    3mm acoustic foam underlay on top of that:

    Followed by Celotex (25mm on the top, 50mm on the bottom):

    Then the tin foil bubble wrap:

    Two layers of acoustic foam went on the floor:

    Followed by more bubble wrap:

    I also put two layers of the acoustic foam topped by a layer of the bubble wrap in the roof. I had planned to use the celotex but the 25mm stuff has just a tad too thick so I couldn't get the panels in neatly.
    Then, seeing as I blew the money I had to ply the inside on a new stereo (well I ask you, what is more important?) the old AA panels had to go back in:

    I can't believe how much difference it has made to the level of noise in the cab. We can now have a chat at 70mph at normal levels, and that's saying something for me as I suffer from tinitus and struggle isolating sounds as it is! Is it warmer? I don't know I've still got to order the bed.
    Quantities used:
    1 sheet 50mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
    1 sheet 25mm celotex, 1/3 left (Wickes)
    2 rolls (60mm x 8m) Tin foil bubble wrap (Wickes)
    2 packs (10m2) Acoustic Underlay, poo loads left (Screwfix)
    1 Roll Silver Duck Tape (Screwfix)
    1 Roll Double sided carpet tape (Screwfix)
    1 Roll (225x10m) Flashing tape (Screwfix)
    As you can see I've not done the barn doors (or the SLD) yet, I've still got parts of the AA chevrons to remove, so need to pop the door handles off. I'll probably get another roll of flashing tape for these. If I'd have known how easily it went on, and the fact its nowhere near as heavy as I though it was going to be I'd have used more in the first place.
    As soon as I get the wheels back from the powdercoater I'll post some pics of the outside.
    Posted 4 years ago # 1
  9. Damion, don't think you'll get any condensation problems in there, the foil bubblewrap is taped all round so will act as a vapour barrier, and the fact you taped the walls before adding the insulation board will help as well
    Posted 4 years ago #
  10. Thanks spooky, yeah, its been in nearly a year now and not had any problems with with condensation dripping on my head like in the old van.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  11. jeff - Member 
    Damion, I've done the same with my ex-AA T4, but I've also carpet lined the inside, and covered the existing floor in hard wearing amdro flooring.
    Much warmer/quieter, but I think I need to put flashing tape round the front wheel arches.
    PSA - Wickes online is cheapest by a long way for silver bubble wrap.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  12. I've stuck camping mats in my Landy, they we're £2 each from local 'everything cheap shop' they have a silver foil on one side. Stuck 'em on with Carpet tape, whole 110 Landy insulated for less than £20
    Posted 4 years ago #
  13. alexonabike - Member 
    Thermafleece and hemp matting.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  14. looks good Damion I think you have a clear winner and a reminder to take pics as I go!! Will post some results
    Posted 4 years ago #
  15. just found the spray foam site not sure if I'm quite up for the gimp suit
    Posted 4 years ago #
  16. damion how much weight did that add?
    Posted 4 years ago #
  17. That looks really good Damion. And the step by step pics are a good way of showing what you have done.
    I have used the rockwool method and having been in the back of my van recently, there was ice droplets on my roof so I don't know how much moisture has crept into the insulation!
    Posted 4 years ago #
  18. alexonabike - Member 
    IMO If you plan on sleeping in your van, don't use foam. As it cures (over a long time) its gives off VOC's that can make you feel like crap in the am. Just my experience. You may be able to get stuff that is not solvent based so have a good hunt around first.
    Posted 4 years ago #
  19. caterhamnut - Member 
    Excellent thread and pics guys. Going to do the same to my VW.
    Homebase doing the thermawrap foil bubblewrap stuff 2 for 1 at the moment, B&W were recently aswell.
    Is there an easy to find place to get that celotez stuff from - screwfix?
    Posted 4 years ago #
  20. grantway - Member 
    What about installing a Leisure battery and some
    electrical sockets for those remote places.
    Anyone have advice on this too
    Can you stop condensation?
    Great thread
    Posted 4 years ago #
  21. its gives off VOC's

    thats half the fun!! A quick google will give answers on batteries, Found a couple of good transit ones, kit is available from any online Caravan shop (might have to engage stealth browsing for that)

Cost of fuel in France

Check out the column on the right which gives you the 2 extremes of prices in specific regions to get an idea.

("Prix les moins chers et les plus chers constatés ce jour dans ce département.")

LDV pilot/convoy fuel consumption

Approximate and average idea of LDV vans fuel consumption:

Consumption always depends on the speed, traffic density, type of road and geography (going up. down or flat), how loaded the van is or if pulling a trailer as well as whether driving against the wind - or under water.

30-33 mpg = 50km/3.8l


6 miles to the liter


0.0784 L/KM

12.75 KM/L

7.84 L/100KM



Approximate cost of fuel (diesel/heavy oil) in London = £1.40/l (april 3rd 2014)

25km = £2.75
30km= £3.30
50km= £5.50
100km= £11.00
200km = £22.00


15mi (940.33yd) = 25km = £2.75
18mi (1128.4yd) = 30km= £3.30
31mi (120.66yd) = 50km= £5.50
62mi (241.33yd) = 100km= £11.00
124mi (482.66yd) = 200km = £22.00

MOT ckecks when buying a van/vehicle

ask the owner for the MOT, you need the reg and the mot certificate number, or the V5 document number ... equest.jsp

Convert mpg to km/l and reverse

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Brake vacuum pump replacement...

Yesterday the belt on the brake vacuum pump of the Pilot had its last spin ion a white smoke and the brakes went off on me.
Lucky I wasn't going fast and I wasn't far from a place to stop safely.
I was sold an approximately similar belt (according to seller) but it was a lot too short and I tried in good faith to fit it on but it only lead me to crack the pump's bracket. Don't replace thing in a hurry early in the morning if you can cause your brain might not be yet fully switched on. Mine wasn't.

It's an easy job with the right belt. I did it before.

Now I am after that part as I must go back to MOT second round very soon to show my brand new front shocks...

This is what it looks like on the DW8 diesel non turbo non a/c 2003.
The belt spec are Dayco 10A0675C.
(Thanks to Steve and Joshua from the LDV fb group!) 

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Difference between SWB and LWB vehicles

"The SWB and LBW is the distance measured from axle to axle. Each maker will have different measurements and size and weight. So the terms are just a guide to the model."

"The wheelbase is the measurement from the centre point of the front wheels to the centre point of the rear wheels. Though we have gone metric this length is often still quoted in inches. The longer the wheelbase the greater the cubic capacity of the load area. However, obviously, the longer the van the more unwieldy in narrow streets and when parking and there is not much point buying an LWB unless you need it's extra capacity. 

An LWB van will usually have a higher load rating than a SWB one. But again, if all you carry are a few cans of paint and some step ladders then the extra load facility is academic. 

There should not be much difference - if any - regarding the insurance costs."

" If you plan to carry heavy small things, then the SWB will be better, but if you plan to carry furniture, the LWB will suit your needs better. You will also find low, medium and high roof variants of these."



This blog is mainly used to archive the repairs on the van so if I'm not posting it's a positive sign...
Since I changed the glow plugs it starts anytime - although it might have a cough now and then when it gets really cold (I think it's cause the battery cable isn't the newest) - and since I replaced the auxiliary belt no more squeaking. Happy days.
I also replaced the water with anti-freeze before the winter kicked in and finally got that puncture fixed on the spare wheel.
Meanwhile I spent loads of time archiving the resourceful discussions from the Fb LDV group onto the LDVsherpaUK forum (It's back and should soon be updated with the old threads I believe).
Next is trying to use fiberglass to save from and stop the rust on the piece over the wheel (yet to find the term for that)

Soon is time for MOT. Regarding this I have started working on fixing the floor but my arc welding skills are not the best. My equipment is basic and I am not so good at picking the right metal sheet. Anyhow I have asked for advice and I'm going to give it another go and probably complete the job with a bit of riveting where welding is not possible.
What I did so far is better than having the driver seat sinking in the floor on one side but you couldn't call it a finished and clean job either...
Past the safety measures one must take on, working with metal and welding is a lot of fun!

Soon time for Road tax too.
and after that time to be skint again.

Happy new year to you!

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Online LDV used parts shop

Thought I'd put this on here... not that I earn anything from it but could prove handy.

LDV Pilot engine

Is this a XUD engine?

I might be becoming a bit obssessed with Pilot's engines...

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Bleeding the cooling system of pilot dw8 to replace coolant - antifreeze

Good to know in general for most engines:

Check what coolant's colour is the right one for your car (dates and mileage matter)
Run the engine before so rubber pipes are softer and easier and less breakable when being taken off.
We also need to run the engine until the big pipe gets hot because it means the thermostat is open. If this is not done the water in the cylinder block wont be flushed.
Be extremely careful when opening the lid of the expansion tank because of high pressure and high temperature, use a thick cloth on top of the lid and hold firmly. do not put your face right above it.

Before going to the engine: turn the heater on max and leave the heater knob switched off.

Unscrew the bleed screw (if there s one on the engine).

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

DIY caravan

A brilliant job by a complete novice to caravan making.
He didn’t have any experience, but this man had the courage and willpower to build something with his bare hands instead of settling for “buying” what he wanted. He settled on building a small, pull-behind camping trailer. It took nearly two months (and a LOT of guesswork) but the final result is cool. You can’t tell an amateur built it.

read more>