Test drive and Checklist - Buying (and selling)

Here is a compiled checklist for the used car buyer.
These are more like notes than a practical checklist but you could make one up for yourself from the notes and take it with you as you go see a vehicle.

USED CAR BUYER CHECKLIST

Questions to a private seller:

1. How many miles on the odometer?
2. Why are you selling?
3. How would you describe the condition of the car?
4. Who was the previous owner?
5. What kind of oil do you use in the car?
6. Where was this vehicle bought from?
7. What are you willing to sell the car for?
8. How long a test drive can I take?
9. Are you willing to let me get this inspected independently?
10. What's the last used car you sold?
11. Any accidents?
12. Do you have the log book?

CHECKLIST

• Oil leak where van is parked? (= possible clutch problem)
• Check oil + fuel measure on dashboard
• Exhaust (Must be in good condition, properly and securely attached)
• Brakes (Feel clutch whe parked and during test-driving)
• Tyres (3mm minimum thread + Should be evenly worn. If not = worn steering/suspension components/frame damage/road shock)
• Steering wheel, steer fully in both ways and feel ( + must be correctly aligned)
• Handbrake (must be fully operational)
• Cambelt (when was it replaced? Standard for: V-belt= every 4 years/36000kms; Serpentine-belt=50000kms) - note there can be 2 to 3 belts on certain engines (Timing belt/cambelt, alternator belt, fan belt. waterpump belt)

• Kingpins (must have been greased regularly on LDV Pilot vans!)

LIGHTS, SWITCHES,etc:

• Seatbelts
• Horn
• Mirrors
• Lights
• Hazard (must be bright)
• Headlights (must be bright)
• Rearlights (must be bright)
• Indicators (must be bright)
• Test all switches of dashboard
• Heater
• Wipers

BODY WORK:

• Dents
• Scratches
• Chips (windscreen)
• Outside panels in line + fully sealed
• Try locks + keys for rust issues (inside/out)
• Doors check + edges + hinges
• Check for rust everywhere
• Suspensions (push down on each wheel > it should bounce once only and feel sturdy)

UNDER HOOD:

Open Hood with engine running and listen for knocks, ticks, hisses (anything too obvious is not a good sign)

• Hoses, Belts > must have no cracks
• Radiator hoses > must not be soft
• On engine block, any dark brown oil stain = leak in gasket (costly)
• Check break fluid+ reservoir > must have no leak
• Check timing belt (if possible by eye/else ask about when it was replaced)
• Remove oil filter cap, if foam residue inside = leaking head gasket (costly)
• Check coolant condition in overflow, if filthy brown coolant = leaking head gasket (costly)
• Brake fluid, if dark = old + if low = brakes could be worn out
• Air filter check > paper filter, make sure there is no oil in it
• Check air intake on engine side of filter for oil > can be a sign of worn piston rings (=lots of miles + abuse)
• Open radiator cap > must hane no oil in antifreeze

WHILE PARKED with engine running,

Turn the steering wheel fully in both direction

• A squealing noise = slipping power steering pump drive belt = can be fixed by adjustment/overheating by friction may habe damaged the belated may need replacing.

• A growling noise = low power steering fluid = check/inspect reservoir/ likely caused by leaking power steering system > could be simply a hose or clamp/easily accessible seal OR a damaged steering rack = expensive

TEST DRIVE

• Accelerate/Brake/Ride/Corner/Park/Steer + sound& feel odd vibrations
• Does the vehicle pull to one side?
• Try the reverse gear

• Are there Jack and Tools?

• Ask for a BILL OF SALE: Party A (name/address/phone) sold this vehicle (details) to party B (name/address/phone)

Meanwhile watch this video